Despite being early March, the weathermen were still talking about a twenty four hour snow fall hitting much of North Wales, Northern England and Southern Scotland. After a busy week both in and out of work, I thought a trip up north to enjoy this late winter wonderland was more than justified. I din’t need much of an excuse. Not only would I get to find out how accurate the weather forecasters had been, but I’d have the added bonus of searching for a moorland bothy in The Yorkshire Dales I had read about. Perfect!
The drive north up the A1 was uneventful until I entered North Yorkshire near Ripon and noticed the distant hills all cloaked in white under the blue sky. The miles suddenly seemed worth it and things just got better as I headed into The National Park and parked in Aysgarth. There was already a large amount of snow laying in the valley, so knew depths would only increase as I headed uphill.
Pathless Moors and Snowdrifts
It was obvious early on that the going was going to be tough. Strong winds accompanying the snowfall had scoured the landscape and created deep drifts against walls and in just about every hollow you could find. At times it was impossible to know whether I was about to step on a simple snow patch or a drift that would have me disappearing to my thigh. I loved it and thankfully no ankles were hurt in the process.
After a short while, I came across a small lake called Locker Tarn. The silence I had enjoyed on the approach was disturbed by quite possibly the two most vocal geese I have ever met. Perhaps they were warning other wildlife that a snow-loving mad man was rapidly approaching. It certainly seemed that way with a few rabbits disappearing quickly along with grouse sheltering in the exposed parts of the moorland.
The First Shelter Is Found
I had seen on the OS map that a small building was located by the lakeside and thankfully it was easy to access. Conditions inside were very basic to say the least, but a fireplace was present as were benches and of course protection from the elements. I don’t think it quite qualified as a bothy, such was its overall condition, but it would still prove invaluable if conditions came in and you were facing a night out on the exposed moors.
The Bothy Is Reached
I was thankful to reach the top of the hill and get my first good view of the bothy in The Yorkshire Dales I would hopefully spend the night in. My first thoughts were how exposed it was and why on Earth a building like this would be built in such a spot. I could make out a clear track snaking away from it into the distance, but transporting the building material up here in the first place must have been an ordeal. I often think that about many of the bothies I’ve visited. They’re often very remote like this brilliant place in The North Pennines.
My thoughts then turned to whether the building would even be open. I’d be pretty annoyed if it wasn’t! Thankfully it was and I was rather impressed by what greeted me inside.
The first room offered two tables and a shelving unit with a few simple resources like medical supplies. Joining this was the bigger room, which contained a large wooden table, two long benches, a couple of chairs and a healthy looking fireplace. Any regular bothy goer will know that this last feature is perhaps the most important. Regularly referred to as bothy TV, it provides heat, light and entertainment for the evening ahead. Watching the flames flicker in an open fire is very good for the soul, especially after a couple of whiskies!
Settling In
With the clouds thickening and an approaching blizzard approaching, the light soon started to fade and it was time to get the fire started. Several fire logs and a good supply of wood I had carried up with me would hopefully warm the place up nicely and make it feel a bit more homely. The dry bracken left on the window sills proved to be a useful addition too. It made for great kindling.
By just after half past seven, I was tucking into my dinner, which naturally was washed down with a good stout. I had to smile to myself as I sat and took in where I was again. Despite being a Saturday, I had the place to myself and was the only person around for a good couple of miles or so.
I had originally planned to enjoy the trip with a local guy I had met in an online camping forum. Sadly he had to cancel due to family issues and for this reason I nearly didn’t go. As the logs cracked away in the hearth, I was very pleased to have made the solo effort. I was having a blast!
A Time To Reflect and Think
You may be reading this wondering how a man can head to such a remote place on his own during a cold snowy night and enjoy it. You might even ask if I felt lonely. I know many people who would hate being in such a place on their own after dark.
For me, I love the solitude and have always enjoyed my own company. That doesn’t mean I’m an aspiring hermit though. My job as a teacher is one of the most sociable around and I enjoy the company of others too.
I love to escape every now and then and just enjoy some time by myself. Being in such a primitive place allows me to temporarily forget about the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Instead I can just listen to the wind outside, wood on the fire and be alone with my thoughts. For me at least it is something I find very beneficial for my soul and well being.
Making Peace With The Ghosts
My biggest worry about these remote bothies isn’t the mice I might be sharing with or total absence of running water or electricity. With these buildings often being old and containing a long history, my thoughts often turn to the paranormal. I had quite an unnerving experience at a bothy in the wild Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales, where my partner at the time and myself hardly slept a wink. Even sitting by the fire had us feeling like we were being watched. Not something I’m sure either of us would ever want to repeat!
There are several bothies in Scotland like the well-known Ben Alder Cottage, which are famous for supposedly being haunted. I think you’d only get me staying in that particular place if I had company.
I didn’t get a bad feeling about this bothy in The Yorkshire Dales, but I still felt the need to keep a candle burning. I settled down in my warm sleeping bag hoping for an undisturbed night of sleep. If anything did go bump in the night, then there was nothing I could do about it. It was pitch black outside and the awful weather conditions would have made it pretty dangerous.
A Change Of Conditions
If there were any ghosts in the bothy, my snoring had clearly kept them at bay. Apart from the wind howling around the building, nothing went bump and I slept pretty solidly.
It was hard to leave the warmth of my sleeping bag, as just popping my head out revealed how nippy the room was. I didn’t mess around once up. Slippers were put on and the fire was lit once more. I then noticed I was low on water and needed to collect some more using the snow outside.
I used a drift just in front of the bothy, but it was incredible how much of the fallen snow from the previous night had already thawed. The wind still made it feel very cold, but it was obvious that the temperature had climbed significantly. Clouds scudded across the sky and the previously frozen ground now had a distinct squelch to it! Back to the fire it was for breakfast.
Tales From The Bothy
Over my porridge, buttered cheesy bread and coffee, I enjoyed reading the bothy book. If you have visited a bothy before, then you’ll be very aware of how enjoyable these are and how it is almost obligatory that you sign it too. If walls could talk, then these remote buildings sure could tell some tales!
Once I’d signed the book, it was time to give the bothy a good sweep and leave it in the condition I found it in. Such an important part of bothy etiquette I believe and one that the locals clearly adhere to with this particular one.
It was soon time to leave as the sun tried to fight its way through the clouds. Just like Steve McQueen did with his motorbike in The Great Escape, I couldn’t help but give the door a couple of pats as I departed. It had been a great place to spend a cold and snowy night.