Occasionally something enters our lives that can make a lasting impression. It might be a book we’ve read, a film we’ve watched or even a person that we have met. I believe places can have a similar effect and for me at least I’ve luckily found such a location right here in the UK- The Cambrian Mountains. It isn’t maybe where you’d expect. You won’t find this place in any National Park, nor will you find swarms of cars and tourists flooding there with cameras every time the weather is good. It is so special though that I thought it only right to include a guide to The Cambrian Mountains in the middle of Wales.
A typical Cambrian Mountain view. Not another soul in sight.
Often overshadowed by The Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia, The Cambrian Mountains are little known by many. Indeed, only a year ago I’d never heard of them myself, something I’m rather ashamed to admit to as the owner of a geography degree. Like many I suspect, when thinking about Wales I’d picture Mount Snowdon, sheep, incredible male choirs from the valleys of the south and of course Barry Island thanks to Gavin and Stacey. It never occurred to me that there was a middle bit of Wales just sitting there waiting to be explored with so many jewels in its crown. What a huge oversight!
The Cambrian Mountains are about as far removed as you can get from the hectic life we are so used to in many parts of the UK. They cover a huge area of 467 square miles and are often referred to as ‘The Backbone of Wales’, as they link the two national parks at each end of the country. These mountains are also known as The Green Desert. It certainly hasn’t earned this desert status through lack of rain. The main reason is the total lack of infrastructure and people. Take a look at this part of the country on a map and there is pretty much nothing. Only a handful of roads cross them and make for epic drives themselves. Where else in England and Wales can you drive a single- track road for twenty miles and pass less than five vehicles?
An empty landscape so typical of The Cambrian Mountains
Living in one of the most densely populated countries in Europe, it’s easy to forget that such areas of peace and solitude still exist on our shores, especially in England and Wales. Mental health issues and stress levels are at an all time high for many, which I feel makes areas like The Cambrian Mountains incredibly special and important.
As a primary school teacher, who lives close to London, I find travel to remote places great for the soul. While our national parks offer plenty of solitude, they haven’t had the same effect on me that The Cambrian Mountains have. Here are just some of the reasons why I consider this area of Wales to be rather special:
It seems like it has been kept a secret.
This area is so beautiful that it seems almost an insult that more people haven’t heard of the mountains. I suspect that this is because it isn’t a national park or even an area of natural beauty like The Shropshire Hills over the border in England. Proposals to make the area a national park were made back in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s, but were eventually declined by various local groups. While the beauty of the area clearly warrants it a higher status, I suppose that with this would come many more visitors and so much of its appeal would be lost.
The Landscape
While called The Cambrian Mountains, you’ll find no jagged peaks here like up in The Lake District, Scotland or even Snowdonia. They also don’t reach particularly massive heights either, the tallest being Pen Pumlumon Fawr at a modest 752 metres. What they lack in awe inspiring height though they make up for in remote emptiness.
The Cambrian Mountains certainly aren’t conventionally pretty- that is they don’t offer the classic Instagram shots that many are after with breath taking views behind them. Much of the area consists of upland plateau, sitting at well over 300 metres. The weather is frequently harsh and the land is covered in expansive blanket bog, making the terrain almost unnavigable in places. Trees struggle to grow in most areas as the wind alone would batter them well before they became established.
Despite this, the area offers a raw beauty, which in my opinion can’t be matched anywhere else in England or Wales. Even with the huge plateau crowning the mountains, the landscape is still varied. The many mountain rivers and streams have carved dramatic valleys and gorges such as those found near the old Cwmystwyth Mines, Hafod Forest Estate or the stunning Abergwesyn Common. I will never forget the first time I drove the lonely mountain road between Abergwesyn and Tregaron and caught my first site of the narrow strip of tarmac hugging the valley side as the River Irfon cascaded over rocky ledges along its winding route.
The dramatic Abergwesyn Common makes for quite the drive
The Peace and Solitude
In the town I’m from you can’t go much more than around ten minutes before you hear a horn sound. If walking in The Cambrian Mountains, you can go an entire day or more without seeing another person. Other than the wild sweeping views, your only company is likely to be one of the many red kites that can be found here or some hardy mountain sheep, while the soundtrack of choice is the song of a skylark as it hunts for insects in the long grass.
Such is the peace and remoteness of the area that several mountain bothies that can be found across the landscape. These are often old former farming cottages, which have been lovingly restored by the Mountain Bothy Association ( MBA ) and are free to use for those seeking shelter if in need. I’ve stayed in most and every time have found it to be a very enriching experience, as I stepped away from modern life in return for a day or two of an existence our forefathers would have experienced not that long ago.
Lluest Cwm Bach Bothy. The views from the front are great.
The Mountain Roads
I know this is quite a contrast from the previous section, but it had to be included, purely on the fact that there are so few of them. It is amazing really that such a large area is crossed by only a handful of roads. The A44 is the principle route, taking all heavy traffic over the mountains to coastal destinations like Aberystwyth. This means the remaining lanes are rarely used and offer superb views without that constant need to pull into lay-bys like I found when in The Yorkshire Dales.
The Abergwesyn Pass is frequently voted as one of the best roads to drive in the entire UK, yet you could consider yourself unfortunate if you passed more than ten cars on its almost twenty mile route. When I first drove it, I was filled with anticipation and excitement as my Sandero climbed out of Tregaron.
A look on a map shows a narrow lane marked with chevrons pretty much all along its length. Many gradients reach 16% with the steepest part being the aptly named Devil’s Staircase, which tops out at 25%. I’ve driven it twice now and both times almost hear The Shining theme playing in my head as I picture their drive through The Rockies to reach The Overlook Hotel. You really feel like you’ve left civilisation behind as any reception on your phone soon vanishes as do other people.
Along the way you quite fittingly pass Wales’ most remote phone box, chapel and youth hostel. If you fancy an epic drive without the long drive to Scotland, then this road surely must be it.
I will never tire of visiting this area of Wales. Its future is of course uncertain with an ever- increasing pressure to develop our land with an increasing population. Wind farms can already be found across the landscape in places and forestry is big business with plantations covering some of the mountainsides. Despite this, I know the local population, environmentalists and ecologists alike strive to protect this area for future generations. We live on a small yet beautiful isle with The Cambrian Mountains showcasing this. I’ll be back there soon with my backpack. You can be sure of that.