If you are seeking solitude and a place to really escape the busy pace of life, then are are fewer places better to do it in England than Mosedale Cottage. This bothy is located in the eastern fells of The Lake District and it seems almost a million miles from civilisation. Lonely meandering rivers and a few hardy mountain sheep are likely to be your only companions. Just getting to the place is an adventure in itself with wild isolated terrain to navigate. On this trip I’d complete a circular walk to Mosedale Cottage. The route felt remote and little-visited while also offering great variety in terms of the landscape I got to explore along the way. I won’t forget the experience in a hurry. What a great hike it was.
The Route
Route Statistics
Distance: 14.16 km
Elevation Gain: 750.1 metres
Estimated Walking Time: 4 hours 30 minutes
As already mentioned, this route is located in the eastern Lake District not too far away from the M6 motorway. This obviously allows easy access and the bonus is that the area appears to be quieter than more popular spots deeper into the national park.
To reach Haweswater, it is best to leave the M6 at junction 39 and follow the signs to Shap. There are a couple of shops here should you need to stock up on food and drink before continuing the journey. There is very little in terms of amenities beyond the village.
From Shap it is a case of following the route marked out on the map below. It can be slow going, especially if you get stuck behind a tractor like I did. It’s best not to be in too much of a hurry as you may have no choice but to ease off the accelerator and take your time.
Walking An Old Corpse Road
When planning a walk in the area, I couldn’t help but notice one path marked as ‘ Old Corpse Road.’ It is hard not to be intrigued as to how a route earns this name and so the obligatory search on Goggle was needed. It turns out that most of these journeys involve crossing remote terrain, often climbing over a hill or mountain. In the case of this particular corpse road, the dead were carried up and over the moors from surrounding valleys to a particular one, where the could be buried in hallowed ground. If you wish to read more about corpse roads in Cumbria, please click here. To explore corpse roads in the UK, please click here.
Once on the corpse road, it is uphill almost right from the start. It is steep in places, as the path snakes its way up the hillside. After a little while you reach some abandoned buildings and this is a great place to look back and admire the view you’ve just worked hard to earn.
It was a relief to finally feel the terrain level out below my feet and the landscape around me took on a very different feel. Those Instagram type views looking back towards Haweswater had been replaced by wild and bleak moorland. In many ways it felt like I was back in the empty Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales. Not a tree in sight and as empty a landscape as you’re likely to see.
Properly Into The Wild
Passing a remote farmstead in the valley bottom, Swindale is the last piece of civilisation you will see for the remainder of the walk to Mosedale Cottage. Several sets of waterfalls can be seen cascading down the steep craggy slopes of the valley head and you’ll ascend one using a clear path. Once again it is steep and your legs and lungs will certainly receive a good workout.
Like with the first ascent of the day, it doesn’t take too long to reach the top of the climb. Open moorland and a true sense of remoteness greet you at the top. As I followed a meandering river through the wide open valley, it was easy to forget I was in The Lake District. The deep dramatic valleys and rugged mountains that make the national park so famous were nowhere to be seen. It is still beautiful though. A real sense of space can be enjoyed as well as all the tranquility you could possibly need.
After a couple of kilomtres, you turn a bend and spot Mosedale Cottage in the distance. Your first reaction may well be a sense of awe as to how a building came to be constructed in such a wild and remote setting.
Actually reaching the place takes longer than you expect it to. There is no hurry though. I just drank in the views I was enjoying. I also couldn’t help play The Shining movie theme in my head. The isolated house set against the bleak hills and moors behind certainly made it appear like a scene out of a horror film.
Reaching Mosedale Cottage Bothy
It is somewhat a relief to finally reach the bothy. It is quite surprising just how large it is, especially if you’ve been lucky enough to visit others in the area and further affield too.
A little reading online told me that Mosedale Cottage has been an open shelter for many years but has also served as accommodation for estate workers and even a quarry, which is now disused.
The main room contains a fire place, table and chairs. If the weather is grim, then it is a great place to take shelter and warm yourself if you happen to be carrying any fuel with you. It is also possible to extend your stay overnight too should you wish to do this. For more information about the bothy and the others available in The Lake District, please click here.
The Amazing Route Back
I was feeling optimistic as I left the bothy. The OS map suggested that the terrain would become more dramatic and craggy with a mountain pass to conquer right at the end of the circular walk to Mosedale Cottage. Even with this optimism though, the final leg of the journey still managed to exceed my expectations. It was stunning.
The first part saw me gradually descend off of the moors into Brownhowe Bottom. I hadn’t heard of this place prior to arrival there and this made it even more of a sweet surprise. What a setting it was and a wild camper’s dream. The views in all directions were stunning and quite fittingly I had the place to myself.
Tackling Gatescarth Pass
It is worth lingering at Brownhowe Bottom for a while if you have the time. The solitude and mountains surrounding you on all sides are just stunning and photos really don’t do the place justice.
Eventually though Gatescarth Pass will need to be tackled. There is no chance of missing the route as the gate clearly announces its beginning. It is also a significant track, allowing for use by 4 x 4 vehicles on occasion. Thankfully, all was quiet on that front when I hiked its entire length.
Once through the gate, the climbing started straight away. The ascent is steepest near the start and scales the hillside through a series of switchbacks. Very alpine and not very northern I thought. Tough Yorkshire folk for example are famous for building 20% roads straight up hillsides rather than several hairpin bends.
It didn’t matter though. After scaling two fairly meaty climbs earlier in the walk, my legs were starting to feel the effect of battling gravity and I didn’t need much of an excuse to stop and survey the incredible view back the way I’d come.
It was incredible how much the weather conditions changed as I gained altitude. I really shouldn’t be surprised by this after all the trips I’ve enjoyed, but it still took me by surprise a little. The rain started to splinter down and the wind picked up significantly. I was very pleased to be carrying my Decathlon down jacket and Peter Storm waterproof. They were both needed and despite both being budget options, handled the conditions well. You don’t want to get caught out with a lack of layers in these remote spots that’s for sure.
