After a long challenging hike across Knoydart on day one, it is safe to say that I very much enjoyed the sleep marathon than ensued at the end of it. The three of us ended up sharing the large sleeping platform at the far end of Sourlies bothy. Little snoring took place after fourteen year old Jasmine threatened to kick anybody who did! It is safe to say we all very much needed a good night’s rest. Even the resident mice didn’t appear to come out and play.
I was the first to rise at just before eight and I couldn’t believe what greeted me outside. Conditions couldn’t have been more different to what I had arrived to the previous evening. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and instead the sun sparkled on the crystal clear waters of Loch Nevis. It looked like it was going to be a rather special day and indeed it was.
I refreshed myself in a nearby stream making its way down the mountainous backdrop to the bothy and then had breakfast in the sun. There was hardly a breath of wind and it was simply a beautiful place to ease into the second day. Soon I was joined by Simon and Jasmine, who were also blown away by the incredible conditions. Being far more efficient than me, they headed off before I did. We wished each other safe travels and joked that I might well see them later in the day.
Feeling Alive
After the bothy was cleaned and the bothy book signed, it didn’t take long for the climbing to begin as the faint path ascended from Loch Nevis. The legs and lungs were working hard, but with the sun shining and the birds singing I really didn’t care. I felt truly alive and just loved where I was.
Knoydart appears to be a land shaped by water and I enjoyed cascading mountain rivers and tumbling waterfalls at almost every turn. With the sweat already flowing in the sun, it was tempting to stop and bathe regularly, but I pressed on as I wanted to reach the top and enjoy the view I had worked hard to earn on this hike across Knoydart. It certainly didn’t disappoint.
I was so transfixed by the scenery around me that I seemed to lose the path I was following. It proved to be a bit of a mission relocating it again, but I couldn’t help wondering whether I was the first person to be walking on the ground I was covering. It is an interesting thought in my mind to perhaps be the only person to step on a piece of land, which has been there for millions of years. Maybe that’s just me though!
Time For Lunch And A Dip
Reaching the top of the first climb revealed another beautiful glen I had to walk through. Each side of it was very craggy with large boulders scattered across the floor. The geographer in me couldn’t help but notice the effects and remains of glaciation in the area.
Eventually I reached a river, which in true Knoydart style didn’t have a bridge crossing it. Soaked in sweat, that meant only one thing……
The sounds I make in that video hopefully show just how cold the water was. It was very refreshing though and having a tea and piping hot Pot Noddle waiting for me was certainly a wise move. As I got changed, I still nervously glanced around to ensure I wasn’t caught flashing anything that might be considered indecent. I’m so used to lots of people being around, living down south that you can’t take the southerner out of me. Unsurprisingly, not a soul was spotted.
Bog, Loch and Forest
I may have dried off quickly in the sun after my dip, but the bog soon appeared once again and made the going hard and slow. My walking pole became more of a depth checker and it wasn’t reassuring to find some parts deep enough to swallow my leg to the knee. Thankfully, my long jumping ability spared me from soggy feet!
As I crested another hill, so I was rewarded with another fine view. This time a narrow and craggy glen held a stunningly blue loch in its bottom. I struggled to pronounce its name on my OS map, but stood for a few moments and just enjoyed where I was.
From here it was gradually downhill until I entered Glendessary and the forest that fills much of it. The trees were much welcomed, as it was hard going in the warmth of the sun. Shade would be much appreciated. Before taking shelter though I enjoyed a refreshing can of Irn Bru. It had to be done while in Scotland!
I soon heard footsteps behind me. Thankfully it wasn’t a lunatic or yeti, but rather a local chap who had spent the day climbing some of the mountains nearby. We walked and chatted for a good while with the man pointing to one particular peak, which in his opinion offers the best view in Scotland. He showed me some photos he had taken and it did indeed look incredible. Maybe I’ll get up there and see it for myself on a future trip.
The Final Push To Glenpean Bothy
I could have stayed at A’ Chuil Bothy and was very tempted to when I reached it after a long day of hiking. Simon and Jasmine had already settled in too and a man walking the entire Cape Wrath Trail had a roaring fire going. A brief look online reveals that this bothy is very well used and loved by many such as this person. My plan from the start though had been to travel an extra four kilometres or so to visit Glenpean Bothy. It looked stunning in the great book ‘ The Bothy Bible‘ and I couldn’t miss it.
A brief conversation was had with Simon and Jasmine, before I said my goodbyes again, loaded the pack onto my back once more and told me tired feet that we didn’t have much further to go. Thankfully, the trail was clear almost all of the way. It was also fairly flat, which was a relief. I wasn’t in the mood for any more hills.
After around forty minutes or so, I entered Glenpean and I realised that the extra distance was worth it. The view in the evening light was stunning. I shall let you be your own judge below, but I consider Glenpean one of the finest glens in Scotland. It is also a wonderful place to position a bothy.
The bothy proved to be fairly busy, both with wild campers outside and five of us staying inside. There was plenty of space though and the loft upstairs proved clean and comfortable. I reckon the stairs to it though must be some of the steepest in the land. Lethal for sure if you’ve consumed too many whiskeys.
After chatting and filling our tummies around the quality stove downstairs, the bothy fell silent soon after ten. My hike across Knoydart on day two had been tiring but incredible. I shall never forget the views.
Distance: 17.36 km
Climbing: 563.4 metres
Calories burned- Many
Bog negotiated- too much to keep count