Everywhere we look these days there seem to be new housing estates being built with roads busier than ever. Our population has never been greater, yet it is still possible to escape all signs of civilization and enjoy total solitude in the UK. Much of Wales and Scotland is sparsely populated, yet even by these standards there is a place that is truly wild- Knoydart.
Located on a peninsular on the west coast of Scotland, Knoydart is so remote that the only way to access it is either by foot or boat. Apart from a small lane running through the tiny town of Inverie on its southern shore, there are no roads at all in its 507 square kilometers of space. Yes it is very easy to escape the hustle and bustle of life here and it’s for this reason that I was excited to be embracing a three day hike across Knoydart.
An adventure Just To Get There
With no roads into Knoydart, it is a bit of a mission just reaching its remote mountains, lochs and many rivers. Many people complete a route running between Glenfinnan and Inverie. It can be done in either direction, with many choosing to finish at Inverie for a rewarding pint at the remotest pub in the UK. I decided to do it in the other direction, because I was parked at Glenfinnan and wanted the convenience of the car being there at the end of the hike. This was a decision I was very pleased about, as my legs were pretty tired after the three days.
I needed to catch the train from Glenfinnan early in the morning and so spent the night in a great local bothy called Gleann Dubh Lighe. I had visited the bothy before and knew it was an easy walk in. It ended up being a great evening as a couple from Newcastle Upon Tyne arrived with their beautiful dog Boris. We sat by the roaring fire and had a good chat about our different adventures. I was also moved and inspired by Gary, who told me how he had terminal cancer and just wanted to enjoy these sorts of trips for as long as he could. It was incredible how positive he was in the face of adversity. I only wish him and his wife Teresa the very best in the coming months. A fighter he certainly is!
The Journey Begins
By just after nine in the morning, I was on the train and heading west towards the small port town of Mallaig. I had heard about how scenic this journey would be and it didn’t disappoint. Every twist and turn of the track revealed a new loch or incredible mountain view.
I got chatting to a local guy, with me first commenting on how lucky he was to have these views on his commute each morning. He ended up being the man who would be in charge of the ferry I’d need to take across to Inverie.
Thankfully, the crossing was calm and the views incredible. When not chatting to the sailor, I also spoke with a Swiss family, who had made Knoydart their home. It seemed that they fell in love with the place on their first visit and never left. Their home and business is now an off grid B and B on the far west of the peninsular. It is great meeting people like this- those who aren’t afraid to follow their dreams in pursuit of happiness.
I was also amazed by all of the food and other household items being transported on the ferry. This is obviously the only way the residents in Inverie are able to receive the vital products they need. It is such a different way of life, almost alien to a man like me living close to London. Watching the conveyor belt of people remove items from the boat upon arrival was even more impressive. I did my bit and helped carry some heavy bottles of drink to the local cafe, where I ended up enjoying a black pudding bap and coffee. It would be the last home cooked items I’d consume for a while!
Into The Wild
With my tummy filled and fully alert after a strong coffee, it was literally a matter of minutes before Inverie seemed a distant memory and I was starting my adventure into the wild. The scenery was beautiful from the start, but the typical Scottish weather made things tough going with the rain on and off for the first couple of hours or so. Thankfully little wind at this point made the rain almost perfect by Scottish standards with it falling straight down. Those are words of course stolen by Mel Gibson in Braveheart! My new waterproof cagoule was put through its paces and it passed with flying colours. A great piece of kit for the money I must add. Click here to find out more about it.
I was aware that this first leg involved crossing a mountain pass, which exceeded five hundred metres. Starting from sea level, it was a long old slog, but thankfully never got too steep. Just like with any climb, I was rewarded with the stunning views too back towards the village. As I neared the top of the climb, so the sun finally came out and made all the difference. It was finally starting to feel spring like and I even managed a sweat what with all the climbing as well.
Things Get Really Beautiful
It is always a good feeling knowing all climbing for the day is done. On this hike across Knoydart, you are rewarded with awesome views from the top of the pass and I also got my first sight of Loch Nevis.
After crossing a newly constructed bridge, the path marked on the OS map vanished and I was left to negotiate what appeared to be the bog from hell. It was every bit as bad as the blanket bog I had experienced on this incredible hike through Wales’ remote Cambrian Mountains. It was only had a mere kilometre or so to the bothy. Despite this, it took an age to hop from island to island without soaking my feet. The several deer I saw in the distance seemed to stop their grazing as they spotted me. Perhaps they hadn’t been so well entertained for a while. Just about every expletive must have left my mouth, as I just about managed to avoid loosing my boots to the knee deep sludge.
Sourlies Bothy Is Reached
Eventually I rounded a headland and the small bothy came into view. Just as this happened, so the heavens decided to relieve themselves and it rained with great Scottish gusto once again. I still can’t decide whether this was good or bad timing!
It was a relief to bundle in through the door of Sourlies. Both escaping the deluge and also dumping my pack was wonderful. I could actually stand tall again for the first time in hours.
This bothy is a popular one, so I was pleasantly surprised to find it empty at just after six in the evening. I chose the largest sleeping platform, filled just about every space in the bothy with my gear and then stood by the door to enjoy the view. Stunning it certainly was and Scotland at its finest in my eyes.
It was easy to relax inside the bothy. The one room was light, well stocked and of course the open fire was a great feature as well. Every good bothy needs an excellent TV!
As the sun started to set and the rain still bounced off of the corrugated roof, I decided to use my one fire log I’d been carrying to start the fire. I love sitting by an open fire and this experience was no different. It was great to warm the feet close to the glow, while enjoying a curry and beer for dinner. My busy life back near London seemed almost a million miles away.
One Becomes Three
By half past eight I had almost accepted that I would have the bothy all to myself for the remainder of the evening. That was a foolish thing to do! Soon afterwards I heard footsteps and was soon joined by a man and teenage girl. It was safe to say that they were soaked to the skin and not in the best of moods. The fire though looked like treasure in their eyes. We were soon chatting away and recalling events of the day. I quickly learned they were a father and daughter completing the same hike as me. He was from just outside Glasgow originally, but they now lived just west of London. This hike was to prepare them for a trip to the Alps in the summer. We had a good laugh and it was funny how much they loved Wayfarer Meals. Spicy Sausage Pasta seemed to be their particular favourite along with chocolate pudding for dessert. They had certainly earned it! I had multiple items to enjoy too along with several shots of whiskey. A great end to a great first day. I couldn’t wait for what day two had in store. click here to find out how it unfolded.