A warm and settled May Bank Holiday was rapidly approaching and I knew I wanted to make the most of it. Where would I head? Previous experience reminded me how many of the national parks would be bustling with people. Yes it would be possible to find a slice of solitude if I looked hard enough, but I fancied going to a place where it was pretty much guaranteed. With that in mind, the decision was easy. I’d head to Mid Wales and enjoy some wild camping on Drygarn Fawr in The Cambrian Mountains.

This is an area of Wales, which I have grown to adore. Its mountains may not be as dramatic or tall as in Snowdonia or The Lake District, but what they lack in height they more than make up for in remoteness. This area is little known and is often referred to as The Green Desert or last wilderness of England and Wales. This article I wrote, explores the area in more detail and shows how these labels are well deserved.

Leaving Civilization Behind

I parked my car below the dam at Claerwen Reservior. It is a stunning spot with fabulous views in all directions. For fans of the show, I believe the dam here is the one Richard Hammond climbed in a vehicle. Here is the link if you fancy re-visiting that amazing episode.

With my pack loaded for a two day adventure, I left the few people behind, who were basking in the sunshine by the river. Half an hour later, I felt like I was the only person around for miles, as I left the main track behind and headed into a remote valley.

As I mentioned in the clip above, I seemed to usher a flock of sheep further and further up the valley. I kept trying to tell them that they could go back the way they came, but they wouldn’t listen. The faint path continued to snake its way gradually uphill and I decided to stop at a confluence. Other than the bah of sheep, all I could hear were skylarks in the long grass and water cascading down the waterfalls opposite. These sounds are like medicine for my soul. I’ll never get tired of them.

The video clip below sums up the rest of the journey to the summit.

Reaching The Summit

I am always amazed at how some of these summit cairns are constructed and this was certainly the case on Drygarn Fawr. It was the largest I think I’ve seen and resembled an enormous bee hive. It was a relief to finally dump my pack and just take in the incredible views. I’m sure I was also able to stand at least two inches taller than I’d been able to do for the past couple of hours at least!

The photo and clip above hopefully goes some way in showing why The Cambrian Mountains are often referred to as The Green Desert and last wilderness of England and Wales. It is very difficult to find areas of our country so remote and unspoiled. I can certainly see why monks of centuries past came to this area to awaken their souls. All the challenges of life suddenly seem a million miles away up here.

Setting Up Camp

I finally dragged myself away from the views and set up camp. A lack of wind and rocks in the ground made this a very easy task. While putting the pegs in, I was very surprised to hear distant voices and was soon joined by two chaps. I think they were as surprised to see my up here as I was them. We had a chat and I learned they were from Cardiff. Unsurprisingly, they had only recently heard of this area of Wales themselves and were very much looking forward to a night of wild camping in The Cambrian Mountains. So was I!

They decided to pitch up on the other side of the summit. Within minutes it was as if I was alone again. I have completed some pretty remote wild camping in The Cambrian mountains before and Drygarn Fawr certainly qualified as such. Although being a little disappointed that I didn’t have the summit all to myself, it was reassuring to know that help was there if it was needed. Perhaps it is just me, but I always have that attitude if joined by others.

A Broken Night’s Sleep

Much of the evening was spent eating, drinking beer and reading an old Jeremy Clarkson book I have never got around to enjoying. Hopefully the two chaps couldn’t hear me laughing too much from their side of the summit. Having paella described as looking like the contents of a hoover bag was just comedy gold in my eyes.

I settled down at just before eleven and drifted off in no time. It was so peaceful that I could even hear my pulse, if that in any way makes sense at all. It didn’t last. I woke in the early hours to rain pounding the tent along with the wind. If you camp regularly, then you’ll know just how loud this can be. Wild camping on Drygarn Fawr offers very little shelter and it is the highest point for miles around. It seemed the rest of the night would give me plenty of time to experience the consequences of this.

I tried drifting off again and did so with limited success. I’d drift off for a bit before being woken by a gust making me think the entire tent would be lifted off the ground.

A Grim Morning

With rain still bouncing off of my canvas roof, I was in no hurry to get out of my sleeping bag. Although a bit groggy due to lack of sleep, it was very relaxing laying there comfortable and warm, listening to the pitter patter of raindrops above me.

Eventually I got up and enjoyed some breakfast. Porridge was eaten, followed by baked beans and cheesy bread along with a coffee. A long day of hiking lay ahead and I wanted to fuel myself properly. I also just enjoy eating. Thank God I’m an active person!

Taking the tent down and packing away was grim to say the least. It is hard to keep everything dry and I learned right then that a dry bag needed to be purchased for future trips.

At just after nine, I surveyed my spot to ensure I had left no trace and then headed off south to start my second day in The Cambrian Mountains. Hopefully the weather would improve…..