After visiting the area recently, I can safely say there are many reasons why you must visit The Berwyn Mountains. You may well have never heard of them. They are after all so easy to bypass as you drive the more major roads to more familiar places like Llangollen or Snowdonia. This is a big mistake.
Where Are They Located?
As you can see from the map, The Berwyn Mountains are found in north east Wales, close to the border with England. To the north is the delightful town of Llangollen, while to the east is the Shropshire town of Oswestry. Snowdonia National Park is a mere twenty five miles or so further along the A5. This makes it quite feasible to stop off here for a day or so before venturing on if time allows.
How to Get There
Reaching the area is an adventure in itself. There are several approaches that may be taken, but for most it involves leaving the A5 and heading west towards the Welsh hills and a village called Knockin. I did discover driving through this place that somebody has ingeniously opened up a convenience store and called it ‘ The Knockin Shop.’ That one made me smile.
You know you’re getting closer to the final destination when the place names become almost impossible to read. The roads gradually get smaller and quieter until you enter Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant. Here you will see signs for a waterfall and will take a long single track lane to reach it. The road is a dead end, with the waterfall and gateway to the mountains being found at its terminus. It’s been fairly quite the two times I’ve driven it and there are plenty of passing places along the way. It also never gets too steep, instead following a valley bottom. You’ll at least have a happy car!
Pistyll Rhaeadr Waterfall
This article is focusing on the area as a whole, but if you’re short of time and only want to see one thing then this must be it. When you first see and hear it, Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfall gives every reason as to why you must visit The Berwyn Mountains.
At around seventy four metres ( two hundred and forty feet ), it is often claimed to be the highest waterfall in Britain. It is certainly very impressive, but this claim is sadly just wishful thinking. It may well be one of the highest in Wales but Cautley Spout in Cumbria is much higher.
A car park charging £5.00 for the day during the week ( £10.00 at the weekend ) can be found a short walk from the falls. There is also a cafe and accommodation attached to this if you wish to prolong your stay. As you exit your vehicle, you are greeted to the sound of the cascading water. I can well imagine that would be more of a roar during wet winter weather. You can’t help but be filled with anticipation and excitement as it isn’t entirely visible at this point.
Access to the waterfall is relatively easy, albeit a little rocky and slippery if wet. A bridge a little way down stream is a great place to view the falls. If you’re feeling brave, then the pool at the bottom makes a great spot for a dip. It was clean and around chest deep when I went in.
You can also take a short steep climb to the top of the falls. The views back down the valley are amazing as are the many smaller falls and pools. If you enjoy wild swimming or dipping, then there are many opportunities up here.
Into The Mountains
You may be sharing the car park with others, but most of these visitors could well be there just to see the waterfall. I found that within five minutes of leaving my parking place, I was alone and had the mountains to myself. A good entry point is Nant y Llyn valley. You are soon greeted with an incredible view up its entire length. The steep craggy slopes either side of you are a great sight and the babbling river at the bottom makes for a great soundtrack.
It never gets too steep, but there are several routes up to the highest mountains in the range, so can take on a more challenging option if you so wish.
The path up the valley is a great option because the views are incredible and you get to visit Llyn Lluncaws. This is a gorgeous mountain lake backed by mountains. It can tend to be covered in weeds during the warmer months, so perhaps not the best place to swim. Never mind. The setting and views are still amazing.
The Berwyn Mountain Ridge
There are some amazing ridge walks in Wales like the well known one in Snowdonia’s Carneddau Range. While it may not be as long or high, The Berwyn Mountains offer a great option in ridge walking as well. It’s a steep and at times precarious climb up from the lake towards the top. Once there though, there are incredible views in all directions and the long ridge line suddenly becomes visible.
You arrive first at the top of Moel Sych, which sits at 827 metres. Further to the north is the highest point in the range. This is called Cadair Berwyn and is a mere 5 metres or so higher, but looks higher due to the terrain sloping downhill away from Moel Sych. In the distance is the top of Cadair Bronwyn at 784 metres. All these summits make them the highest points in Wales outside of The National Parks. Indeed the highest point in The Brecon Beacons is only around fifty metres higher than Cadair Berwyn. An interesting comparison I thought!
As the video clip above shows, the views on a clear day are incredible. You can see Snowdonia to the west, The Shropshire Hills to the east and the amazingly wild Cambrian Mountains to the south. Certainly a good place to catch your breath and enjoy the beauty of Wales. Another reason why you must visit The Berwyn Mountains.
Stories From The Mountains
When I decided to do a bit of reading about the mountains, I found they had a pretty interesting history with some good stories attached too. Firstly, The Berwyns appear to have helped Wales during a nearly forgotten battle way back in 1165. King Henry II tried to invade Wales, but his plan was thwarted by persistent heavy rain and tough terrain. The Berwyn Mountains and its unpredictable weather actually helped send a king and his army back the other way.
The mountains are also famous for strange sightings in the sky. A famous event in 1974 allowed the area to be dubbed ‘ The New Roswell Incident’. Various explanations have been given since, but it still remains a well known tale in that part of Wales. When you’re up on the highest mountains, you can certainly imagine a flying saucer appearing at night. It is such a remote and quite part of Wales.
Those Who Visit Love It
I enjoyed a wild camp at Moel Sych when I visited and loved it. The weather conditions were incredible as were the views. I didn’t see a single other person up there either which was a bonus too. Others who visit appear to adore the area. Dave Outdoors has visited several times and made some amusing videos about his experiences too. Well worth checking out. Other outdoor enthusiasts also rave about the mountains, speaking highly about their experience even if it was a tad nippy.
