The Cumbrian Mountains of the Lake district offer some of the most dramatic scenery in all of England,Wales and even Scotland for that matter. An estimated 18.4 million tourists visited the national park in 2022 alone. It’s certainly a very popular place any time of the year and with those numbers, you may be worried that solitude will be spoiled by the many visitors. While some areas are hot spots for people like Scafell Pike, it is still possible to feel like you have the mountains to yourself. The northern fells of The lake District are one such place. I have fallen in love with them if I’m honest, which is why I’m writing this article. Let’s now take a look at why you must visit if you haven’t done so already.
Where Are The Northern Fells?
This one is open to interpretation a little, but in this article I will consider it anywhere north of the A66. Access to the area is relatively straight forward, as this trunk road links with the M6 at Penrith. The maps below shows the size and scale of the area compared to the rest of the national park.
The Land That Tourists Forgot
The lofty mountains of Skiddaw and Blencathra demand most of the attention and are located in the very south of the area. This is where most of the visitors flock, as they aim to perhaps tick off another Wainwright or just enjoy the challenge of scaling some of the tallest mountains in England. They’re both great to climb, but what is even more wonderful is how well they keep visitors away from the hills and mountains situated to the north.
As that sub heading above might suggest, it’s almost like many walkers don’t bother venturing beyond these two giants. After exploring the area thoroughly, I can claim that this is a huge oversight.
The solitude I enjoyed here was as present as it has been in lesser-known places such as The North Pennines. At times it was hard to believe that I was in fact walking in England’s most popular national park. Those many millions of visitors seemed a million miles away! If you looking to escape the hustle and bustle of every day life, then the northern fells of the Lake District will certainly help you realise this goal. It’s a great area to re-set the batteries and almost become one with the landscape and elements.
Skiddaw and Blencathra
I’ve already mentioned them, so now is as good a time as any to explain why they’re so well liked and among the most popular mountains in the Lake District.
Standing like towering guardians just to the north of the A66, their principle attraction is their height. With Blencathra reaching 868 metres and Skiddaw managing an even greater height at 931m, they more than hold their own with any mountains south of the central belt in Scotland. Each mountain is unique in its own way, so let’s now look at why both mountains should be on your itinerary.
Blencathra
What a brilliant mountain this one is. The variety it offers is perhaps its greatest strength. Everything from a steady ascent along a clear track to a technical traverse along the narrow ridge of Sharp Edge are possible when heading for the summit.
A bonus is the fact that the stunning mountain lake of Scales Tarn sits to the south of the highest parts of the mountain and makes for a wonderful spot to take a dip on a warmer day or even during colder periods if you’re inspired by Wim Hof! For some quality photos of the tarn please click here.
For details about the amazing hike I completed to the summit and all the way along the top of the mountain, please click here.
Skiddaw
At 933 metres Skiddaw is the fourth highest mountain England and the Lake District for that matter. It doesn’t have a rival to Sharp Edge over on Blencathra, but there are still several good options when climbing the mountain. Always seeking paths less visited, I headed up via a northern approach and saw very few adventurers. The journey back via Carlside Tarn was a stunner. Views were incredible in all directions and I certainly won’t forget it in a hurry.
Click here to read more about the incredible circular walk I enjoyed on Skiddaw.
Other Summits In The Northern Fells of The Lake District
There are plenty of other quality hills and mountains to scale in the northern fells. Most are far less technical than those further south and so are suitable for a wider range of walking abilities. Here are several other summits that are worth the visit along with a reason why:
Binsey Fell
This is one of the most northerly mountains in the whole of the national park and is unique in that it sits detached from the rest of the high ground. The result of this is a fell that is rarely visited but still offers incredible views in all directions on a clear day. The day I visited, I thoroughly enjoyed looking south into the rest of the Lake District and north to the Solway Firth and the mountains of southern Scotland beyond. Click here to read more about what you can expect to experience on this walk.
The Cockups
I haven’t done what that subheading suggests. There really are several hills in the area that have this almost unbelievable name. To be more precise there is a Cockup, Little Cockup and perhaps the greatest one of all which is Great Cockup. I haven’t climbed these hills so can’t tell you what to expect. All I know is that their names alone warrant a visit and you’ve got the perfect excuse if things don’t go according to plan on the walk.
A Sense of Space
It isn’t until you visit the northern fells of the Lake District that you realise how different they look and feel compared to areas further south. Other than Skiddaw and Blencathra, there is a distinct lack of crags. Many summits are still considered mountains ( they have to exceed 600 metres to be considered one ), yet they more resemble hills due to their rounded tops and smoother slopes. Several of them are also covered in expansive moorland. Layers of peat are more common than piles of loose rock and scree.
Some of the main valleys are wide too and offer far reaching views. There are certainly moments when you walk and feel very small compared to the scale of the landscape you have almost become a part of.
The Mountain Tarns
Glaciation during the last ice age is what has certainly shaped much of the landscape we can enjoy in The Lake District today. If you enjoy physical geography, then you’ll be aware how glaciers were born in corries, which then became the higher altitude tarns we see today after the ice melted.
The northern fells of The Lake District contain two such tarns and both are well worth the visit. Scales Tarn as already mentioned sits below Blencathra and is a popular spot to stop at before heading for the summit.
My favourite tarn though is Bowscale Tarn. It is in a little- visited area and is much quieter as a result. The views are incredible and it would make a brilliant place to wild camp. Click here to read about a circular walk you can complete, which visits the tarn along the way.
Accommodation
This might seem like an unusual subheading to include in an article speaking about one of the most wild and empty areas of the national park. Despite the lack of people, there are several options for you to enjoy. Other than many country B and B hotels located around the periphery of the area, there is also a bothy and youth hotel to find within its interior.
Skiddaw House
What a gem of a place this is. Located over three miles from the nearest road, this youth hostel is the highest in England and must surely be one of the remotest too. If you are looking for an off-grid experience that allows you to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life, then Skiddaw House could be just the place you’re looking for.
While I reckon a stay here would be amazing any time of the year, it also has an open door policy for passing hikers and bikers. The toilets, kitchen area and lounge are available and provide an excellent place to take shelter and refuel if needed. The photos below go some way in showing just how wonderful Skiddaw House is.
For further details about making a booking at Skiddaw House, feel free to click the link here.
Lingy Hut Bothy
Located high on an exposed moor is the remote mountain bothy of Lingy Hut. This shelter is about as basic as it gets with no electricity, fire or sleeping equipment. Despite the ‘bare-bones’ nature of the place, it offers a good shelter against the elements, sleeping platforms and as much solitude as you could ever wish for.
I was lucky enough to visit back in October 2023 and had the place to myself. Find out more about the bothy and my experience here.
The Views Of Others
Hopefully you can see why it is easy to love the northern fells of the Lake District. I’ve given plenty of reasons to visit the area, but thought I’d include some views of other people who are also drawn to the area. I decided to ask folk on an outdoor forum why they liked the northern fells and here are some of the responses I got:
I was born and brought up in the South Lakes, but my family originate from the North Lakes, so it has always had a pull. Now I live right next to the northern fells.
I find the northern fells more wild than areas further south and you get that feeling that you are nearer to God’s country- Scotland.
Richie Iddon
I’ve actually only done seven summits in the northern fells but 2 out of my top 3 are there- Blencathra and Skiddaw.
Alan Horvarth
A Longer Tale
Back in 2015 I spent a glorious week with my wife and 1 year son in Troutbeck, completely enchanted by the view of Blencathra. It was this week that reignited my love of the Lakes. Roll forward a few years and I finally climbed Blencathra, my first winter snow walk. It was immense! Indeed the Northern Fells were also the scene of my first ever Wainwright walk with my sons as we climbed Binsey. Immense views of Skiddaw which became my favourite solo day hike when I climbed the Skiddaw group.
What a mountain Skiddaw is! I have found all the walks out in the Northern Fells full of substance and drama. Other areas my body seems to toil more but not in the northern Fells. The walks feel easier somehow.
With my surname, we aren’t sure of our heritage, perhaps it hails from Caldbeck? This place certainly feels like home. I love the villages in this area. They feel detached from the tourism of the rest of Lakeland. I feel like I belong in the Northern Fells.
The solitude, the peace, and the wildlife that I love too. If you want to see Red Grouse and Peregrines, this is the place! I discovered Dash Falls recently. And the view over the Rover Caldew. Just wow. I love the view from Latrigg. What an aspect onto Derwent water and Bassenthwaite with all those ridge lines to savour. And the connection to the sea too, to the Solway Firth beyond the lush green pastures of North Cumbria. Here you will also find my favourite road in the Lakes, unclassified past Faulds Brow. It’s great fun! For me, The Northern Fells really has it all!
Tom Coulbeck