Bothies come in all shapes and sizes. Some like Ryvoan in Cairngorm National Park are a tiny affair and even the main door is designed for those of shorter statue. Other bothies like Glenpean have two floors, four rooms and even two fire places. Bothies also offer varying degrees of comfort. Carnmore Bothy in The Fisherfield Forest is as basic as it gets with a mud floor and no fire place. In complete contrast, Uags Bothy feels very much like a home away from home. It is an absolute gem and it is just one of the reasons why I feel it is well worth the visit.

An Epic Journey In

Uags Bothy is located on the Applecross Peninsular up in the north west of Scotland. The region itself is called Wester Ross and is one of the most sparsely populated parts of Europe. I think this little video clip I made below sums things up pretty well:

It is safe to say that Wester Ross is stunning and offers enough wild space to keep you satisfied for a lifetime.

The mountainous terrain covering much of the area means that accessing the coast on the Applecross peninsula is no easy feat. There is a stunning coastal route, which passes remote houses and offers incredible views out to the remote islands. The more well-known and exciting route is up and over the Bealach-na-Ba mountain pass.

It begins at sea level and climbs to just over two thousand feet in about six kilometres. The hairpins near the top and its length make it one of the most alpine climbs on our shores and it is no surprise that it’s a mecca for cyclists, who want to test their strength.

Several camper vans coming the other way made the many passing places very much welcomed too, as it’s a pretty thin road most of the way up. It is often snow-bound in winter months, which is worth considering if visiting out of season.

The Walk In

I took my car as far as I could in the south of the peninsula, before leaving it behind and starting the hike. Cottages were scattered loosely around the bay and its overall remoteness had me playing the Father Ted theme in my head. What does a young person do on a Friday or Saturday night here?

I was aware that the forecast was for rain to set in soon after departing the car, so it was very much a race against the elements. The sky was threatening most of the way in, but thankfully spared me a soaking. It would of course pay me back for that the following morning!

The walk to Uags Bothy wasn’t challenging at only around three kilometres in length, but it was constantly undulating with several streams and one larger river to negotiate. This proved quite challenging on the return leg after nearly twelve hours of rainfall. One to be aware of and certainly a boots off and aqua shoe job needed in order to cross when in spate.

Uags Is Reached

It is always a relief to find the bothy you’re heading for and this one was no different. The usual anticipation and nervousness entered me once again, as I wondered whether I would have it all to myself or if I would be sharing with others. I was sure I could smell burning wood, but then again I do have a rather active imagination!

Upon entering Uags Bothy, I was greeted by two guests already settled in. They were a couple from the west country and had already been there for a night. They had decided they loved it so much that they would extend their stay. I couldn’t say I blamed them. I’m lucky enough to have visited many bothies already and Uags is certainly one of the most comfortable and homely I have seen. Settling down in one of the comfortable chairs by the open fire, it really did feel like a home away from home.

As is typical in bothies, these two strangers soon became friends for the evening. I enjoyed a haggis dinner with rice ( no sure if rice with this Scottish dish is a crime ) before sharing other food and drink with my new bothy mates. They were certainly thankful for me carrying in some fire logs, as the wood they had collected was damp and hard to burn.

I love bothy nights. All of the distractions of home are left behind and it is a chance to get back to basics and enjoy the life out forefathers did. Sitting by the open fire, drinking whisky and just chatting about everything and nothing was a real delight. I love the bothy experience so much that i have even made a video all about them up in Scotland. Feel free to watch it here.

A Sleep Marathon

I’m not sure if it was the whisky or peace and quiet that allowed me to sleep for nearly ten hours. Clearly the effects of my hike across Knoydart still hadn’t worn off and I needed the rest. The near constant rain on the roof made things even more relaxing, even if it made me go to the loo more than I perhaps wanted to.

The Weather Gods Getting Their Own Back

Clearly I had taken all the available luck with the weather the previous evening. I was going to have no such good fortune this time around. After another fire to warm the living room, I enjoyed a hearty breakfast and prepared to leave. I was in no hurry with the rain lashing against the window, aided by the onshore wind.

I said my goodbyes, signed the bothy book and then braced myself for the soaking I was going to receive. My clothes were pretty sodden within minutes. Thankfully it wasn’t cold and the wind tended to ease a bit. I couldn’t help but laugh and think of that line in Braveheart, where Mel Gibson comments on how there was perfect Scottish rain falling. Yes I was soaked, but I was loving it.

I was relieved to finally arrive back at my car and get out of my wet clothes. It was then onwards to the village of Applecross, where I treated myself to a fresh coffee and some of the best chips I’ve ever tasted.