A visit to the Isle of Iona takes quite the effort, as reaching this tiny Hebridean island is likely to involve two sea crossings and a two hour drive. Getting there certainly isn’t straight forward, but then when did anything rewarding ever come easily?
The Journey
It is the road across beautiful Mull, which is without doubt the highlight of the journey. After passing through Craignure, you are treated to scenery, which really wouldn’t look out of place in The Highlands. Craggy mountains, cascading waterfalls, remote lochs and secluded glens are all to be enjoyed along the route. Dramatic views appear to reveal themselves at almost every turn of the single track road. You don’t have to worry too much about oncoming traffic though. Even when I visited during mid August, I only had to give way a handful of times.
Eventually, you leave the taller mountains behind and drive the length of The Ross of Mull en-route to Fionnphort.
As a fan of the nineties comedy Father Ted, the theme started playing in my head during this leg of the journey. Passing through sleepy villages and even remoter hamlets, it is hard not to wonder what life must be like in such a hard to reach place. The much loved and well known Tobermory is nearly two hours away by road and even that only has a population of roughly one thousand people. The pace of life is much slower here than in the cities for sure.
The Ferry To Iona
Finally you arrive at Fionnphort, a tiny village with an end of the world feel to it. It was refreshing to see the main car park was free of charge. Hopefully that will remain the case. A simple walk downhill is all that’s needed to reach the boat too. The crossing only takes around ten minutes, but I can well imagine that the passage can be rough for much of the year. It certainly was on the day I did it and it was during the height of summer. Speaking to one of the workers on the ferry, he did inform me that it does get cancelled from time to time during the winter months. Something to note for sure if you’re planning to visit out of season.
Five Reasons Why You Should Visit Iona
Now that you have reached Iona after a memorable journey, let’s look at some of the main reasons why it’s a special place to visit.
1) Its History
It would almost be a crime to not start here. Iona is sometimes referred to as ‘The Sacred Island.’ This is because it is widely believed that this tiny island is where Christianity first arrived in Scotland. Almost everywhere you look, you’ll see evidence of how important religion and spirituality was through the ages.
There are many articles online, which can provide you with all the information you could possibly need. This one is a great starting place and you’ll soon learn how important St Columba was.
Because my visit allowed me to spend a Sunday on the island, I attended a church service at Iona Abbey. I’m not a regular church goer, but thoroughly enjoyed the morning. I’ve no doubt that where I was just added to the experience. For details about church services and the abbey in general, please click here.
2) The Beaches
You don’t have to visit the Scottish islands to experience amazing beaches, but for such a small island ( three miles by one mile ), Iona sure does offer some great stretches of sand.
The north in my opinion is where you need to head during your visit to the Isle of Iona . The OS map below shows how extensive beaches can be found at the northern island of the island and they certainly don’t disappoint.
I’m sure you may well have read about or even seen photos of the stunning white beaches which can be found on the Outer Hebrides. Some on Harris rival those in the Caribbean and other exotic places, when the sun is shining. It turns out that some on Iona aren’t far off either.
I still remember catching my first glimpse of Traigh an t- Suidhe ( try saying that after a few whiskies ) in the far north. My arrival reminded me in some ways of the first time Leo and his French companions spot that famous beach in the 2000 hit movie. I couldn’t help but start to jog towards it, drawn like a magnet towards its powdery white sand.
At one end was a local man collecting musells from the rocks. Other than that, I had the entire beach to myself. There are few feelings better than cool sand beneath your feet and the sound of the waves gently lapping the beach. A shining sun in the early evening certainly helped too.
3) Its Size
Bigger isn’t always better. You can visit many Scottish islands and feel like you’ve only really scratched the surface even after several days there. This has certainly been the case with me. I started my adventures in the Scottish islands by visiting Jura. It was a memorable trip, yet over three days I only really saw the north of the island and the east coast. The famous Paps, which dominate the skyline from most parts of the island weren’t visited this time. It provides a good reason to go back, but it means I’ve left with unfinished business.
There isn’t much chance of this happening on Iona. This is of course a good thing. As already mentioned, the island is only three miles long and roughly one mile across. A person of average fitness can easily explore the entire island in a day. It also means that the varied highlights of Iona are never too far from each other. Spend any time in The Highlands and you’ll know that distances even between towns can be rather large indeed.
Iona also has the advantage of having the well placed craggy hill of Dun I near its middle. It might only be just over one hundred metres in height, however the island’s small size means you still get great views over it and the surrounding islands on a clear day. Sadly, it was pouring with rain when I wanted to climb it. Typical! For details about the climb, please click here.
4) The Sense of Peace and Tranquility
It could be the placebo effect, but the sense of tranquility on Iona felt different to any other part of Scotland I had previously visited. If you know the Highlands and islands, then you’ll know that peace and solitude aren’t hard to come by outside of the central belt.
For me, the difference was that that the landscape was still wild and beautiful, while signs of human life were never too far away. The religious history and knowing the island was a sanctuary for such spiritual people certainly added to the sense of peace as well.
There are far remoter places to visit in Scotland like the stunningly beautiful Knoydart Peninsula or empty Wester Ross. As beautiful as these regions are, you can feel rather lonely in places, as you may well be the only person around for miles. On Iona, the fact that there are only around 170 permanent residents means it is still easy to find beaches and other attractions totally free for you to enjoy in peace. Despite this, a detached house can be spotted from most spots on the island. You are remote, but not entirely cut off from other people. That fact might be comforting for some people. It certainly helped me relax during my stay there.
5) Its Amenities
After chatting to a local man during a walk on Iona, it is clear that a strong sense of community spirit prevails on the island. This is one of the things that I love about life in these out of the way places. We’re still in the UK, yet it may as well be a million miles away from the life I’m used to down in south east England.
This sense of togetherness, coupled with the many visitors who visit Iona during the year means it offers most services you could possibly need. This website does a splendid job in outlining all of the facilities the island has to offer. Several accommodation, eating and even shopping options are listed.
While exploring, I also saw how wonderful Iona could be for mindfulness and general well being. I remember first learning about the island when the TV presenter Ben Fogle visited and stayed in a retreat. The island clearly left a lasting impression, as I believe his daughter shares the island’s name.
Walking the main lane on Iona, I observed adverts for several retreats, yoga sessions and of course church groups as well. There is plenty do do, yet I can still imagine it being hard to leave Iona after a few days without feeling properly rested.
My Experience
My visit to the Isle of Iona lasted only eighteen hours. Despite my fleeting visit, it is a place I shall remember fondly for the reasons I’ve given above. I will never forget leaving the rain laden clouds behind on Mull and sailing towards a bluer sky on Iona. I had read how the island has its own micro-climate at times and got to experience it first hand.
While initially being disappointed to see signs discouraging wild camping, staying on the island’s campsite was also a real joy. At only £10.00 for the night and with great facilities provided, it offered excellent value for money. As locations go, it must be one of the best on offer as well. It is barely a kilometre from the ferry port and about the same distance from a golf course backed by a sweeping bay and Atlantic waves crashing against the rocks. Stunning and unforgettable for sure.