The Cambrian Mountains are a special part of the UK. The landscape may not be as dramatic as in places like The Lake District or The Highlands, but it is every bit as beautiful. They certainly feel wild and remote in a way very few other places do. It’s the reason why I love them and find them luring me back time and time again. I have completed many walks in the area, including this one, which I feel is one of the best in Wales. On this occasion though I’d be embracing the challenge of completing The Monk’s Trod route. It is long, covers unforgiving terrain and must surely be in contention for being the wildest walk in Wales.
Why The Monk’s Trod?
As the name suggests, this route earned its name from Cistercian monks using the route many hundreds of years ago. There were two very important abbeys in the area at the time: Abbeycwmhir in the east and Strada Florida in the west. Between these two locations are the twenty odd miles of wilderness in the uplands of The Cambrian Mountains. Having just walked it, I now have even more respect for the journey the monks undertook. There was no GPS, OS maps and specialist clothing to protect them from the worst of the welsh weather. They were spiritual and gentle people, but also as tough as they come. Of that I have no doubt.
Day One- Pont Ar Elan To Claerddu Bothy
Distance walked: 13.97km
Altitude gained: 339.65 metres
Calories burned: Lots!
I did debate whether to do the entire walk from Abbeycwmhir over to the bothy, but this would have meant the first six miles or so would have been on country lanes. For the sake of my time and your interest, I decided to complete this part in my car and get straight to the wild and remote section.
As I left my car behind at the small Pont Ar Elan car park, it already felt wild and deserted. This of course was nothing compared to the remoteness of where I was heading.
Before long I had found the clear bridleway and started the gradual climb uphill. The weather conditions were stunning and my spirits were high. Right from the off the views were beautiful, as I looked out across Craig Coch Reservior. I could even spot the bothy I planned to stay at on my final night.
Things Get Seriously Wild and Remote
Around two hours into the walk, I stopped to have some food and just admire where I was. The sun was shining and there were just green hills separated by remote river valleys in all directions. I had covered four miles and knew this was still the closest road to where I stood.
As remote as I was though, I wasn’t completely alone. Mountain sheep kept me company along most of the route, even if I seemed to repel them in my usual manner. I still have no idea why they don’t fancy engaging in conversation or at least wish each other the best. One look at me and they seem to bolt in the opposite direction.
Much of the Cambrian Mountains are made up of a high plateau area around 400 hundred metres above sea level. I am certain that the weather can be challenging up here for much of the year and it something to certainly note if you’re planning to do it in winter. I would imagine this hike would be seriously challenging at that time of year and with the shorter daylight hours too.
Up at this altitude and with the nearest road being miles away, you are of course treated to complete tranquility . I could already understand why this route was special to the monks and it is wonderful that this peace and solitude still exists today. If you’re from a busy part of the UK like I am, then it can sometimes seem hard to believe this is still possible in England or Wales.
Signs of People
I didn’t see a single other person on this entire leg of the walk, but what I did witness was evidence of them being here previously. Being a bridleway, the Monk’s Trod has become popular with off road bikers and 4 x 4’s.
I had read in this article how the larger vehicles have recently been banned from the route, but it is apparent from the scars they have left on the landscape that they have had a lasting negative impact on the land.
If they all stuck to the track, then I suspect the problem wouldn’t be anywhere near as bad as it is. It was apparent to me though how many had tried to forge their own routes, thus creating far more damage than was necessary. Such a shame.
The Going Gets Tough
I was now over halfway across the mountains and the going had being relatively easy until this point. As I approached the valley, which was home to Claerwen Farm, things took a sudden change for the more challenging.
I think this video clip below sums up how my mood changed, as I went from admiring the scenery around me to accepting that my feet were about to get very wet indeed!
If you are wondering how I fared, the river won! I decided to leave my boots on in the end and very nearly made it. One deep section near the opposite bank filled my boots with the icy water I was hoping to avoid. At least it made the upcoming blanket bog easier to negotiate. I was so hacked off from the squelching of my boots, that I frankly didn’t care if any more water entered them. My feet couldn’t get any wetter.
This river crossing was probably the most challenging part of the route, as it is wide and fast flowing in places. There is no bridge either, so the only way to ford it is to cross by foot. It was fairly challenging in summer, so believe it would be downright dangerous to attempt when in spate. One to note for sure.
You aren’t out of the woods once the river is forded either. There is a path marked on the OS map, but in reality it is a very faint track through tussocky grass and bog that can swallow ankles. Even with my already wet feet, I found this section seriously slow and I saw why this could be considered the wildest walk in Wales. I was very pleased to finally make it onto a clearer bridleway once again. The views in all directions cheered me up and had me up my pace for the final part of the walk.
Claerddu Bothy Is Reached
My feet were very relieved to finally arrive at Claerddu Bothy. It is only a short distance from the extremely remote and undulating road, which climbs up and around The Teifi Pools.
I had decided before arriving that I would camp outside the bothy rather than stay in it. This was because of an unnerving experience myself and my partner at the time had when we stayed. I didn’t sleep a wink that night and we both felt like we weren’t alone by the fire even though we were. Maybe that was just us though. I know of many people who have had very different experiences such as this chap. His photography is second to none and really does this bothy location justice. I can’t really compete with the quality of his work, so will leave a video clip for you to enjoy instead. Enjoy!
A Tent Without Pegs
That subheading says it all really. I unpacked my tent on the flat ground close to the bothy and soon noticed I had forgotten to pack the tent pegs- a first for me. I was livid and spent a good few minutes being very hard on myself for my own stupidity. There was the bothy as a backup, but I really didn’t fancy sleeping inside, especially as nobody else was around. Who would be there to hear a grown man scream in the dead of night?
I gave myself a stern talking to and reasoned that the monks from centuries gone by wouldn’t have had any of these mod-cons we are blessed with today. They still got it done though and so I had to as well. It seemed to work. A bit of foraging allowed me to find some slate close to the path. Some knives and forks left in the bothy also helped. My new Oex Bobcat tent was up in no time and I was proud of my improvisation. Sadly, I only had some mountain sheep around as witnesses. The grass seemed more interesting than my handy work!
I must add here how happy I was with the tent even with the pegs over a hundred miles away. It was easy to pitch and has since gone on to prove it is a robust piece of kit that defies its affordable price. Click here to watch a video about the item.
With the moon out and not a breath of wind in the air, I drifted off soon after tea to one of the most peaceful nights I’ve had in ages. Only one toilet get up was needed too, which is good going for me these days. That must have been the beer!
Day Two- Claerddu To Strada Florida + Return Leg To Lluest Cwm Bach Bothy
Distance Walked: 27.47 km
Altitude Gained: 711.62 metres
Calories Burned: Almost too many to replace!
Number Of Times Lost: 1
Exploring Strada Florida
The walk from Claerddu Bothy to the abbey was fairly straight forward. It was certainly nowhere near as wet as the previous evening. Views across The Teifi Pools were certainly a great way to start the day too.
Exploring Strada Florida was a pleasure. They are located in such a peaceful place with the sound of sheep and birds in the air as you wonder between the ruins. It was also nice to enjoy the company of some other people at the visitor centre. A great conversation was had with a local couple, while I enjoyed some lunch and a fresh coffee from the machine provided. They were both welsh speakers from a village nearby that I struggled to pronounce. The gentleman was especially impressed when I told him about the walk I was completing. He showed me the weather forecast for the rest of the day and wished me all the best. Conditions looked grim. It was to be a very different experience on the return leg.
A Battle Against The Elements
Despite the beautiful valley scenery, it didn’t feel great to be climbing back up towards the lakes I had started at earlier in the day. It was only one pm, but the weather conditions had already gone downhill too. The sky was blanketed in thick cloud and a fine drizzle was starting to set in. I’m sure the sky was trying to tease me in some way, as I knew the rain would only get heavier during the afternoon.
The long gradual climb eventually led me back onto the high plateau, which crowns the Cambrian Mountains. The extra elevation worked wonders in allowing the clouds to empty any of the water they were carrying. I was by now wearing all of the waterproof clothing I had on me and it was needed. The rain would go from moderate falls to sudden deluges, where you could see the sheets of rain being blown in the wind in front of the mountains ahead. It was properly grim, but I suppose these conditions were far more typical of what this area of Wales experiences for much of the year. Just another reason why it may well be the wildest walk in Wales.
It had been several hours since I’d seen any sign of civilization, but eventually I crested a windswept hill and caught sight of Claerwen Farm once more. This must be one of the remotest buildings I’ve seen in some time, so thought I’d get the camera out and do some filming. Here is what I shot:
https://animoto.com/play/5EMiNaxJK1h43ke3zyjrSQ
Finally Reaching The Car
I managed to get lost in the rain, somehow completing a thirty minute loop, which took me back to a spot I had stood at half an hour previously. With tired feet, an empty belly and rain soaked clothes, it didn’t do much for my morale I can tell you!
Once more though I pressed on, remembering that the monks had managed it and that I had no choice but to do the same. Dinner for the evening was back in the car and I didn’t fancy pitching a tent in these conditions.
The car park eventually came into view after what seemed an eternity and I somehow managed to increase my pace. I guess dry clothes, a warm car and a bounty of food and drink has that effect on a hiker after nearly eight hours of walking.
It took all of my will to pack my wet pack and continue the further two kilometres or so to Lluest Cwm Bach Bothy. I did it though, but will save that tale for another article. This one is long enough already.
To Wrap Things Up….
This was right up there as one of the toughest walks I’ve done and is without doubt the wildest walk in Wales I’ve completed. In terms of toughness, it felt as hard going as my three day hike across Knoydart in Western Scotland. The distances involved are significant and you are likely to spend almost all of it completely by yourself. If you fancy a physical challenge, while enjoying natural beauty and solitude at its finest, then I would highly recommend walking The Monk’s Trod. Spiritual enlightenment and wet feet await!
