I woke early to the sound of rain battering the roof of my tent. A long day’s hike lay ahead, but I was in no rush to pack away after a great wild camp on Drygarn Fawr. Time was taken to enjoy breakfast. I was eventually forced to load my pack exposed to the elements. Not a great start to the day, but I remained optimistic. I was looking forward to a full day of walking in the amazing Cambrian Mountains, culminating with a stay at Moel Prysgau Bothy.

Exploring Cwm Gwesyn

The two other campers I had chatted to the previous evening raved about this valley. They spoke of waterfalls, crags and swimming spots. I was intrigued and decided to descend the mountain via this valley.

Initially, there wasn’t much to look at. I could see little more than a hundred metres ahead, so just focused on the faint path in front of me. After a steeper downhill section, I heard the familiar trickling sound of a newly born river. As a geographer, I just love stumbling across these and then watching them grow rapidly as they head downhill. The hike to the source of The Severn is a particular favourite.

I soon not only found myself finally dipping below the cloud level, but also entering the upper stages of Cwm Gwesyn. It was wildly beautiful, with long grass growing on the valley sides and sheep scattered across them. Being lamming season, it was also fun to enjoy the different pitched ‘ bah’s’ of the young ones.

Things Get More Dramatic

I stopped for a few moments to just take in the peace and solitude I was experiencing. Other than the river, odd mountain sheep on the hill side and skylark singing in the grass, there was no other noise. Pure bliss! Glancing south, I couldn’t help but notice the valley becoming more dramatic with taller mountains looming either side of it.

Eventually, I reached the series of waterfalls the two other campers had spoken about. I knew what they meant now. It was gorgeous and dramatic in a way I love. The valley sides were now steep and craggy with several other streams cascading down them into the main river. Incredible to think that this deep valley had been carved by the combination of water and time.

I did spot several plunge pools, which would make for excellent swim spots. The cool overcast conditions put me off trying any out this time though. I must go back on a sunnier day to have a dip!

Eventually I made it to the end of the valley and walked through a wonderful little forest. I especially loved how lush it all was. Most of the trees were covered in thick moss, which just made it feel all the more mysterious in my eyes.

Entering Abergwesyn Common

It seemed almost odd underfoot as I followed a country lane for a couple of kilometres. This wasn’t just any country road though. This stretch of tarmac was one I had driven the year before and fallen in love with. Leaving Beulah in the east, it makes its way across the remote Cambrian Mountains before terminating in Tregaron. Views are incredible and you get a true sense of wilderness along much of its route. This great website provides more details about this route as well as others in the region.

I knew I was in for a real treat a little way along the road. When I caught my first glimpse of it, I wasn’t disappointed and was in fact blown away. That’s even after already seeing it for the first time the previous year.

I took my time walking the length of the mountain pass and just enjoyed the views in all directions. It is a road I certainly suggest you drive at least once in your lifetime. I have driven many and believe this is one of the best in the UK. I think I only saw around six other cars on the entire route. That is special on such a populous island.

A Strange Turn Of Events

I paused at the western end of the pass. Here you can enjoy views of The Devil’s Staircase, a series of switchbacks offering severe gradients for anybody wanting a challenge. There is also a house in one of the remotest spots I think I’ve ever seen.

As I approached, I could hear all sorts of birds coming from around the building and I spotted a man stood out the front. Initially we waved at each other, before I pressed on. It was already mid afternoon and there was still plenty of walking to be done before I would reach the bothy.

Something inside me made me go back though. I was intrigued by the house and the people that lived in such a spot. I’m glad I did. A few moments later I was chatting away to the owner. He was a friendly man called Charlie and he was soon offering me a drink and a lift in his car. I know what people say about strangers, but I figured he seemed friendly enough and so took him up on his offer.

Charlie took me a good bit closer to the bothy and shared the intimate knowledge he had of the area. It also seemed he had lived quite the life, living in various parts of the word before settling in The Cambrian Mountains. I could have listened to his tales for longer, but soon enough I had to thank him for his kindness, before following a 4 x 4 track for the final three kilometres to Moel Prysgau.

Reaching The Bothy

The track wasn’t an easy route in and after taking off my boots to ford two rivers, I finally caught sight of the bothy. It is in a gorgeous spot, surrounded by coniferous forest and with a mountain stream flowing by out front.

I always feel a sense of anticipation and nervousness as I approach a bothy. Various thoughts enter my head. Will the bothy be occupied or will I have it to myself? What condition will the bothy be in? There is of course only one way to find out.

I soon learned that I wouldn’t be fortunate enough to have the bothy to myself. My three bothy mates for the evening would be three friends from London. They seemed friendly enough and after dumping my pack, I joined them outside for a well deserved beer.

The guys had come very well prepared. The oldest guy was a forestry worker and so had driven them very close indeed in his 4 x 4. This meant they would carry in copious amounts of food, booze and even a portable toilet. That is proper bothy luxury right there!

A Great Evening By The Fire

As the daylight faded, so the fire was lit and a great night at Moel Prysgau Bothy ensued. The guys had carried in loads of wood and in no time the room was so warm that we were down to our T shirts. Moel Prysgau is certainly one of the more comfortable bothies I’ve visited, with the main room being small and cozy, especially with the fire lit. This video explores the inside in good detail and shows what a cracker it is.

We of course chatted about everything and nothing, while enjoying food and plenty of drink. This is one of the things I love about the bothy experience. Here I was travelling alone, yet I had made three friends in no time, even if it was just for the evening. Bothy goers are generally a very friendly bunch!

By just after eleven, we all decided to call it a night. I retreated to my room next door, which was markedly colder than the one containing the fireplace. It was a bit of a shock to the system. Thankfully my sleeping bag soon worked its magic.

It took a while for the voices to die down next door, but they were eventually replaced by the sound of snoring. The rain now falling on the roof did a good job in sending me off to sleep.

A Challenging Route Back

I had a well- rested night during my stay at Moel Prysgau Bothy. and didn’t need to get up once to go to the loo. That is very unusual for me with a pea- sized bladder!

Breakfast was enjoyed and I was soon ready for the off. It was still only half past seven and so I didn’t have a chance to say goodbye to the guys next door. I left a brief note in the bothy book and then headed off into the forest.

It would take three hours to get back to the car, even though it was parked only seven kilometres away. A path is marked clearly on the map, but in reality it is hard to follow and appears to vanish at times.

My first obstacle was the forest. Being a plantation, some areas were being cleared, while others had the trees closely planted, making it really hard work to negotiate.

I was one very relieved man to finally exit the forest and be on open ground. This was short lived though, as I was then faced with the bog of doom. Much of the area is covered in thick tussocky grass, which is extremely hard to cross. Some call it dancing grass, such are the ridiculous moves you end up pulling just to stay upright!

To Conclude…..

My night at Moel Prysgau Bothy was a very enjoyable one. Initially I was disappointed that I didn’t have it all to myself, but an enjoyable evening was still had. It won’t be long before I’m back in this amazing part of Wales again and I might even pop in for another visit. it’s well worth the slog.