Skiddaw doesn’t need much of an introduction. At 933 metres in height, it is the fourth highest mountain in England and demands your admiration as you enter The Lake District from the A66. There are numerous routes to the summit and all offer a true sense of accomplishment. Always seeking paths less traveled though, I approached from the quieter northern side as I completed an amazing Skiddaw circular walk. The variety it offered was incredible and the day ended up being one I won’t forget for a long time.
The Route
Route Distance: 16.85 km
Estimated Walking Time: 5 hours 40 minutes
Elevation Gain: 972 metres
The Skiddaw Circular Walk- Leg One- The Car Park To Skiddaw House
As you can see on the top map, the route starts on the minor lane, which forks off of the A591. A small car park is located on the right hand side of the road and is free of charge.
The next couple of kilometres sees you following the road north past farms and across a tumbling stream. One such farmstead appeared to have more bird life than a lively hen party. A confused cockerel was even making that popular cockerel noise at 11 O Clock thinking it was still dawn. I always grew up associating that sound with early morning, but maybe it’s an all day thing for most of them. Who knows?
Anyway back to the walk! Only two cars passed me, so there was plenty of solitude to enjoy even at this stage of the hike. Obviously the peace and quiet only improves the further into the walk you get.
After a few minutes of easy walking along the lane, a sign comes into view which points you in the direction of Skiddaw House. No excuses to get lost on this part of the walk!
Into The Wild
Once the tarmac ends, you begin to get a real sense of being out in the middle of nowhere. The scenery also gets more dramatic as you spot Whitewater Dash Waterfall looming in the distance. You can’t help but notice the path snaking its way to the top though. The relatively easy start is about to end and the lungs and leg muscles will be called into action. A great little warm up before you tackle the much longer ascent of Skiddaw later on.
Personally, I really enjoyed the short steep climb. There is nothing better than feeling the burn in the legs and the increased rate of the heart. For me it makes me feel truly alive and in the moment. Any problems in life take a back seat as you pick out the line you’ll take and focus on reaching the top.
Once you reach higher ground, the terrain levels out and a moorland spreads out before you. I was lucky enough to enjoy calm conditions but be prepared to be battered by the conditions if they’re not in your favour. Other than Skiddaw House, there is absolutely no other shelter around.
I was walking at such a pace that I caught a chap who looked like he was out for full day’s adventuring. We shared the rest of the journey to the youth hostel and I learned that he was from Norfolk. He was a keen runner and told me about many of the routes he had raced over the years. It was inspiring hearing his stories. Next time I must write down the names of the people I meet though so I can include them in these write ups. My memory isn’t quite as sharp as it once was!
With an extra spring in our steps, we upped the pace and had soon arrived at the place I had raved about on the approach.
Skiddaw House
What a gem of a place this is! The northern Lake District offers some really wild and remote fells to explore and it is wonderful to have access to this building for several reasons. I shall include several photos of what you can expect to find inside and you can find out more about the youth hostel in my description of it when I climbed Blencathra.
The Only Way Is Up
Did that sub heading make you start humming or even singing that popular track released by Yazz back in 1988? I couldn’t think of a better title for this section, as it is the way of things once you leave the comfort of Skiddaw House behind. This is without doubt the toughest part of the Skiddaw circular hike coming up.
Things start fairly gently, as the gradient produces a slog rather than a proper climb. There is also no need to worry about navigation, as the path is clear all the way to the stile you’ll need to cross close to the summit.
Looking at the map, I couldn’t help but smile as I noticed that this route would take me over the smaller summit of Sale How. The photo below does show that it is pretty unspectacular, but its height makes up for it. At 666 metres, I couldn’t help but play The Omen theme in my head as I passed a small pile of stones marking the devilish altitude.
Thankfully, my journey continued without incident or curse after cresting the summit and I was even able to enjoy a brief descent before the tougher part of the climb commenced. I also enjoyed the rest of the views available to me, as the cloud base was just above my head and would soon turn this upland world into a very foggy one.
Entering A Rocky World
No I didn’t bump into Sly Stallone nor did I run the rest of the route and jump around with my hands above my head with that famous theme playing. What in fact happened is that the grassy slopes I had been ascending seemed to end quite suddenly and were replaced with a far more barren and rocky world.
I met a family at the stile, which points you in the right direction towards the summit. Every bit of help was needed with navigation here as visibility was certainly down to less than one hundred metres.
The gradient pitched up once again and it was hard going with the loose rock underfoot and the weather conditions which seemed to deteriorate with every step.
So far on this Skiddaw circular walk I had been down to my T Shirt. It is amazing how quickly you warm up when climbing. As I neared the summit though, so the rain started to pelt down and the wind was now howling in from the west. I was thankful to be carrying several warmer layers and a day pack that included its own waterproof cover. Within a couple of minutes I had added a fleece, down jacket and waterproof to my upper body. The two men passing in the other direction couldn’t help but laugh at me, while I wrestled with the waterproof in the savage winds. My expletives and demands of, ” Just f*cking get on!” must have helped.
Despite costing just over £20.00, I must say that the waterproof did a sterling job in keeping my dry. That was some going with the way it was being blown straight into my face. Click here to find out more about it.
Taking Shelter
Luckily there is a stone shelter close to the summit, which offers some shelter from the elements. It was remarkable how much protection from the wind it offered and I soon got chatting to a hardy Yorkshire man who was already seated behind the wall.
A brief conversation was had while we both sipped on warm drinks and our moods were even briefly lifted when the sun revealed itself for a fleeting moment. Clearly it wasn’t feeling it though, as the thick cloud soon swallowed it whole again.
The Descent- Is This The Best Part Of The Skiddaw Circular Hike?
As much as I enjoyed the chat with the friendly chap at the summit, it was a relief to start the descent back towards the car. Visibility could only improve and the temperature increase. Both big pluses at that moment in time I can tell you! I had forgotten my gloves and was very much regretting this fact.
It has hard going though right from the start though. The combination of a steep gradient and very loose scree underfoot made me very pleased to be carrying my trusty walking pole. It might be one of the cheapest available, but it certainly still helped take the strain off the knees. These days I very rarely hike without it if I’m honest.
Before long I dropped below the cloud base and caught sight of the route I’d be taking. It looked rugged and wild in every sense. Yes this part of the Skiddaw circular walk was going to offer views that would live long in the memory bank that’s for sure.
The Ridge Begins
Once you pass Carlside Tarn, the ridge starts and the views just get more and more impressive. You’ll be pleased to hear that it is never particularly technical or dangerous. Crib Goch it certainly isn’t. There is not even any scrambling to complete. That doesn’t mean it isn’t completely without challenge though. It is still steep in places and you will need to pick your line across the rocks and stones which allow you to negotiate the sharp incline.
Soon enough the end of the ridge appears and the view north opens up to reveal the flatter side of Cumbria, The Solway Firth and even the Southern Uplands of Scotland.
Once off of the ridge the last kilometre or so will see you crossing several farmer’s fields, which you may share with sheep or cattle. I was even lucky enough to watch a farmer and his sheepdog go to work with a large flock. It was amazing to watch their teamwork and also the defiance of the sheep they were trying to move.
