That is quite a bold statement to include as a title. If you are lucky enough to have visited plenty of these remote shelters, then you probably already have a list of favourites. Perhaps you can even rank them in order of preference. There are many to choose from after all. Some even have almost legendary status in the bothy world such as Shenevall in Wester Ross or Sourlies on the remote Knoydart Peninsula. A visit to Dibidil Bothy on Rum has made me strongly consider replacing my current top choice with this gem. Let’s now take a look at what makes Dibidil Bothy such a special place to visit.
The Journey In
Sitting by the open fire one evening and having a read of the bothy book. I soon learned that you can access Dibidil Bothy in several different ways. Some decide to arrive by boat or even kayak. With relatively easy access to the sea, this is a very feasible option. My first evening at the bothy was shared with a local man called Dougie, who had paddled over from nearby Eigg. Watching him make an early departure the following morning made travelling by kayak look almost ideal. Clearly one for the more settled spells of weather though.
Some folk also complete the dramatically beautiful Rum Cuillin traverse, before ending the long day at the bothy. Having completed this hike myself, I now have much respect for anybody attempting this. Both scaling and descending the mountains while carrying full camping gear must make it hard work indeed. It isn’t something i’d recommend if I’m being honest. This hike is considered by many to be one of the finest on the Scottish islands and carrying lots of extra weight may well spoil things a little.
The Coastal Route
Most visitors to Dibidil Bothy take the 8.5km coastal route from the tiny village of Kinloch. With only a population of around thirty people, it is still the only inhabited settlement on the whole of Rum. Once you leave the ferry behind and hike past the bunkhouse and small collection of houses, you soon leave all signs of people behind. What a treat you then have in store for the next three hours or so.
The landscape and views are constantly changing on this walk. An uphill slog starts things off, but soon enough it begins to level off and your first river crossing is needed. Boots may need to come off, but the cascading clear water is still a great sight and offers a good place to collect drinking water if necessary.
From this point onward, it really is a very special walk indeed. Although boggy in many places and slow going, you tend not to mind with the sea views on your left hand side. The Isle of Eigg sits out in the bay, while the near endless line of mountain peaks on the mainland can be seen further behind. Catch it on a sunny day like I did and it just makes you feel privileged to be there.
In addition to the sea views, you have the rugged interior of Rum to marvel at on your right-hand side. Several more mountain rivers tumble their way down towards the sea and you will need to ford each of them. I found these beach shoes very useful indeed, especially in the wider rivers, where currents were stronger. Not only did my boots remain dry, but they offered grip and safety when needed. Something to consider on this walk and many others for that matter, especially during wetter spells of weather.
A Test Of Nerve
As you near the bothy, so the path climbs and hugs the mountain that drops straight into the sea. It’s never dangerous, but still offers a bit of a challenge if heights aren’t your forte. I just focused on the path ahead and the views in front of me rather than the large drop to my immediate right. I’m useless at Go Ape such is my fear of heights. This method certainly helped me on this leg of the walk.
The Location
I’ve been lucky enough to visit many bothies now and I certainly won’t forget the first time I admired the setting of Dibidil Bothy on Rum. It blew me away and the walk I’d just enjoyed made it even more impressive.
Nestled in a glen carved by the powerful Dibidil River, rugged mountains loom large on three sides. The view out to sea in front of the bothy just adds to the depth of the experience. There is so much to take in and enjoy from the bothy door. Dibidil must certainly offer the best location when it comes to the meeting of mountain and sea. It has to be seen to be fully appreciated, but the video clip below will hopefully go some way in doing it justice.
The Bothy Itself
An iced cake is no good if the sponge is all dry and without flavour. It’s the same with bothies. Yes Dibidil has a stunning view from its front door, but it’s no good if the building itself is dark, dirty and uninviting. Thankfully, Dibidil Bothy on Rum just so happens to be one of the best maintained open shelters I’ve visited in Scotland.
It is a classic but and ben building in that there are two main rooms, which are joined by a porch area just inside the door. Both are comfortable, but the right hand room offers the best conditions. It didn’t take long at all for me to settle in and have it feeling like a home away from from.
What struck me first of all was the cleanliness of the place. There was no mess at all and all chairs, bunks and shelves were in excellent condition. Plenty of books created a library of sorts and the open fire place was decorated with stag’s antlers sitting on the shelf just above it.
I was a little apprehensive about my first night in the bothy, as I’d read about how the place had been infested with rats at one point. There was no evidence of any during my stay and I didn’t even hear a mouse during the night, despite a broken sleep. I have no doubt that the excellent cleanliness had something to do with this. This is due to the respect give by those who visit, but also the time volunteers give to protect the building from the pounding it must receive from the Scottish elements.
An Excellent Base Camp
The famous Rum Cuillin hike has already been mentioned and Dibidil Bothy makes a great base camp to enjoy it comfortably. I spent one full day hiking the route and started it straight out the back of the bothy. Virtually all routes of this circuit take in Dibidil Bothy at some point. It just makes a great place to start and end the day’s effort. I jumped straight in the river to cool off with it being a warm day. On a colder occasion, you would probably really appreciate a roaring fire and hot food in the bothy. I certainly didn’t envy the couple I met, who had to complete the three hour coastal walk back after traversing the Cuillin.
To Wrap Things Up……..
Dibidil Bothy on Rum is a special place thanks to the reasons mentioned above. A comfortable interior coupled with awesome surroundings makes it a place well worth the visit. Your journey to the bothy just adds to the adventure and the Cuillin hike makes it all the more memorable. It is certainly a place likely to live long in my memory that’s for sure and I can’t wait to head back some time in the future.