The ferry across to the funny sounding Fishnish Port on the island of Mull is almost full to bursting point. Judging by the assortment of number plates, there must be a dozen nationalities of people all sharing the short journey from the mainland across the relatively narrow passage of water. Various accents and languages fill the cool air on the upper deck, but we are united by the excitement and anticipation we are feeling. It’s hardly a surprise when you consider what we can see. To the west is a blue sky, with the August sun sending its rays shimmering across the inky water. In contrast, black clouds fully laden with rain obscure the distant mountains on the mainland to the east, while rolling green hills are our target straight ahead. I can’t help but smile, as I note that nestled within that lush looking landscape sits my planned home for the night- Tomsleibhe bothy on Mull.
The Journey In
Mull is a surprisingly large island covering 338 square miles. Much of its interior consists of rugged mountains, lochs and beautiful glens, yet I somehow managed to park right next to two large rubbish containers. Not my finest moment, but it was truthfully the best option in making the route as short as possible. After my grueling hike around the Jura coast earlier in the week, I felt no shame in taking the easier option I can tell you!
To show you how the journey started, including walking the wrong way down a main road, please have a watch of the video below:
The OS map had promised a clear track all the way to the bothy and this did indeed come to pass. Suffering pathless terrain with bogs, slippery rocks and six foot bracken to boot on Jura, I cannot tell you how good this felt. The views just made it all the more enjoyable. There was a real sense of space in the glen, with its floor being wide and flat. To the left flowed the River Forsa, while directly in front of me stood the imposing Beinn Talaidh. At just over 761 metres, it is no giant. The combination of its steep sides and practically rising from sea level still makes it look an intimidating prospect from afar. I of course had its summit as a target for the following morning.
Other than a herd of highland cattle blocking the track along the way and fording a gently flowing burn, the walk in was a very straight forward six kilometres. Tomsleibhe bothy was soon spotted and what a setting it was afforded.
That Mix Of Emotions
If you a regular bothy visitor, then you’ll know what I’m talking about. Approaching a remote building like this provides a real mixture of feelings. There is of course relief in knowing you’ve completed the journey. You will probably be even happier if your boots and the rest of you are still dry. In contrast you may well feel a sense of nervousness. Yes you’ve seen photos and maybe even videos about the place beforehand, but will it be as good in reality? There is of course only one way to find out.
I felt all of these emotions, as I tackled the slog needed to reach the bothy door. Sniffing the air as I went, I couldn’t detect a burning fire, but still wondered if I’d have company or not. Knocking on the door and receiving no reply, it appeared at least for now as if I’d have Tombsleibhe bothy to myself.
The Bothy Tour
I decided to film the interior of the bothy to show what it is like. Tombsleibhe is a typical but and ben building, like many other bothies in Scotland. If you are interested to know, the but would have been the kitchen space for previous residents, while the ben would have been the living space. It never ceases to amaze me how these refuges were once family homes at some point. With no electricity, sewage or piped water, conditions today are much like they would have been all those years ago. A true taste of the past if you like. To watch my tour of the bothy, please click on the link below.
https://animoto.com/play/0tEUpbqtXxNCPqbKs1NG6w
I’m sure you’ll agree that the bothy is in great condition. It must get battered by the elements on a regular basis, so it just goes to show what a great job the volunteers of the Mountain Bothies Association ( MBA ) actually do. To see their explore their informative website, please click here.
Meeting The Neighbours
There may have been nobody else in the bothy with me, but things were starting to liven up outside. After enjoying a beer soon after arriving, it wasn’t long before I had to relieve myself. The view out across the surrounding mountains was fantastic, but I was more interested in my new company for the evening. Gathered on the hillside was a large herd of highland cattle all happily grazing away on the grass. Being a Friday night, I was going to ask them where they were heading onto afterwards, but decided to just watch them instead.
They’re certainly menacing looking animals, but they offered no real threat to me at all. Some looked up from their meal, possibly wondering why a lone man was out in the drizzle just looking at them. It wasn’t long though before the good eating drew their attention away again. It proved a great way to pass some of the evening.
Darkness Falls
By just after 9pm it was starting to get dark. I had carried in some fuel for the fire and it was already burning away well by this point. It wasn’t cold, but an evening in a bothy without a fire is like a fry- up without black pudding- it just isn’t the same!
A couple of citronella candles were also lit to keep any midges at bay. They left me alone to enjoy the remainder of the evening. Plenty of comfort food and some scotch certainly made this easy to do.
Despite my room for the evening feeling pretty cozy in the fire light, it was still a little spooky to hear the wind whistling around the building and rain splashing against the window. It looked like I would spend the night alone in this old remote building.
If you let your imagination wonder in such a place, then you can start to question why you are even there. I had to have a bit of a word with myself when I started to feel a little uneasy. Reading the bothy book showed how happy all previous guests had been and there was no mention of ghosts or anything else paranormal. Tomsleibhe bothy on Mull also didn’t have a reputation of being haunted such as Ben Alder Cottage in The Highlands or Nant Syddion in mid Wales. To find out more about these locations please click on the links below:
Stories about Ben Alder Cottage
Article about Nant Syddion Bothy
A Heavenly Sleep
The flames were still flickering away in the fire, when I eventually settled down at just gone eleven. The glow in the hearth and from the candles helped me relax along with the copious amounts Jura whisky I had consumed earlier. Even as a man of nearly forty, it might have been more difficult to ease into a comfortable sleep with the room being pitch black. I have experienced darkness like this before and can’t say I particularly enjoy it.
I laid for a while just listening to the cracking of wood on the fire, rain on the window and wind in the chimney. It worked a treat in sending me off into a deep sleep, which was clearly needed. I wouldn’t wake again for nearly nine hours.
Rain Makes Things Interesting
It was still raining when I woke. I suppose eleven hours of continuous precipitation isn’t all that unusual in western Scotland. After finally leaving the warmth of my sleeping bag and making myself looking respectable enough for any spectating sheep or cows, it was time to head out to the burn to collect some much needed water. Porridge and coffee were much needed.
I could hear the burn before I could see it. The roar was quite intimidating and so I found myself almost jogging downhill to see what it looked like. A raging torrent of water is what greeted me. The burn was almost unrecogognisable from the previous evening, such was its might this morning. I’d read about how dangerous rivers could be when in spate and this was all the proof I needed. Sometimes you have got to love the full force of nature haven’t you?
I managed to find a safe place to collect some of the raging water. Miraculously, I didn’t lose my filter in the process. It wasn’t long before I had it boiled and sat in front of the fire once again to enjoy some breakfast. While eating, I checked my OS map App to remind myself as to which route I should take up the mountain behind the bothy. There was soon a problem. Yes I had to cross the burn. That clearly wasn’t going to happen this morning. I love a challenge, but I’m not stupid. Trying to ford the torrent would be a very dangerous thing to do. I’ve no doubt that it had the force to lift me off my feet and drag me away.
The Route Up
Leaving my main pack behind, I loaded a smaller bag with some essential items and headed off into the drizzly gloom. Conditions weren’t inspiring at all and the upper parts of Beinn Talaidh were completely shrouded in thick cloud. I counted any small blessings I could though. It was breezy enough to keep the midges at bay.
I stuck to the left of the burn and had to forge my own path. Thankfully, the grass wasn’t too long and it was fairly easy going. It wasn’t too long before I summited Beinn Bheag. At 537 metres, there were still a couple of hundred metres to climb. If I’m honest, this is is as high as I went. The wind up there was brutally strong to the point where it was hard to stand up. In addition, I wasn’t far from the cloud base. Any higher and there would be no view at all. Usually I would have been little disappointed not to have conquered my goal, but the view even from the lower altitude made things easier. It was awesome.
On three sides the mountain fell away into the glens deep below, while the craggy mountains opposite were painted with white lines, which were obviously the many burns carrying away last night’s rain water. There was nobody else around and I felt like I had this corner of Mull to myself. In truth, I probably did. Most sensible people were probably relaxing in front of the TV.
To view details about actually making it all the way to the summit of Beinn Talaidh, please click here.
After being battered by the wind for a good fifteen minutes or so, I retraced my steps back down towards the bothy. It was incredible how much the water level had dropped in the burn. A couple of hours can make a big difference to the flow rate of a river so it would seem.
Fording the river still wasn’t easy. Wet boots accompanied me on the amble back to to the car. I was just relieved to be back though, as the ford earlier in the day would have been impassable and I was worried earlier on about being stuck at the bothy another night. It wouldn’t have been a disaster though. There are certainly worse places to get stuck.
To Wrap Things Up
Tomsleibhe bothy on Mull is a great place to escape to if you are seeking solitude and fine Scottish scenery. Compared to other bothies, such as the amazing Sourlies Bothy in Knoydart, it is very easy to reach and also is no where as busy as you’d expect it to be. A bothy on the mainland with access this easy would see much more human traffic than Tomsleibhe does. If I can visit on a Friday in August and have it to myself, then there is every chance you might too. Even if you don’t, you’re likely to have a great evening in front of the fire with some new like-minded friends for the night.