If you read that title as somebody who has been lucky enough to visit the Howgill Fells, then I’m sure you’ll be nodding in agreement. When exploring them the first time, it is hard not to wonder why the area is as little known as it is. These remote hills are almost always overlooked for their loftier Yorkshire neighbours and the nearby Lake District. In my opinion this makes it all the better for the Howgills, as their emptiness is a huge part of their appeal. You can tell that I have grown to love these fells and I believe I have good reason to. Let’s now take a look at five reasons why you need to visit the Howgill Fells.
1) The Solitude
Yes I’ve already touched on this in the introduction above, but I can’t repeat enough how quiet these hills are. I’ve been lucky enough to visit all of the National Parks in the UK and I have struggled to find anywhere as free from people as the Howgills are. Only the remote North Pennines or Cambrian Mountains in mid Wales have felt more empty.
What is most remarkable is that they’re clearly visible between junctions 37 and 38 on the M6. I’m certain that the many millions of drivers over the years have glanced over to view their western slopes and wondered about them. These drivers are obviously on their way to somewhere else, so I’d imagine only a tiny fraction actually return to explore them separately.
Once you enter the Howgill Fells, you will find no roads or settlements. Only valleys, remote becks and paths can be found. Other than abandoned sheep folds and the occasional trig point, signs of civilisation can seem almost a million miles away. Bliss!
A Personal Experience
Despite living in the south of England, I’ve returned four times to the Howgill Fells. The peace and solitude they offer is incredible and makes the long return trip more than worth it. Sometimes I have found life’s stresses affect my well being and coming to a place like the Howgills is a great place to re-set the batteries so to speak.
They’ll always be a special place for me, as I remember heading into them after the end of a long-term relationship. I had been a bit of a mess if I’m being honest and I remember feeling the first peace in days, as I did battle with gravity up the side of Cautley Spout. I also slept the best I had done in a week or two. Even now, I always leave feeling more relaxed and calm than when I entered them. Nature really is one of life’s best detoxes!
2) The Unique Landscape
The Howgill Fells may be in the Yorkshire Dales, but their geology and topography makes them feel very different. I always feel more like I’m in The Lake District if I’m honest, even if the hillsides aren’t as rugged and craggy overall.
They certainly have a unique character of their own, which is hard to replicate anywhere else. I guess this will explain why the well respected Alfred Wainwright spoke so highly of the area. He described the fells as looking like a herd of sleeping elephants in certain light. Although dated, it is still worth watching this video after reading this article. Wainwright discusses in detail why the area was special to him and why it should be explored by outdoor enthusiasts.
It is prime walking territory for sure. The terrain is almost exclusively grassy and is easy to navigate for the best part. What is particularly noticeable is the almost total absence of fences and walls. It gives the fells a very open feel, as you can wander almost at will. Just make sure you have GPS when the clouds are low, as it’s very easy to become disorientated when they are.
The Howgills are home to several truly stunning waterfalls, which I’ll describe in more detail below. In addition though, there are many gorgeous valleys/dales to explore. You may well enter some of the more remote ones wondering how long it has been since somebody else has walked the same route.
My personal favourite is Bowderdale. It stretches for several kilometres and is a beauty for its entire length. What made it even better was the fact that I saw only two other people on the entire route. A real sense of solitude and remoteness can be enjoyed as well as the views. Bowderdale Beck meanders its way lazily along the valley floor, while numerous tributaries cascade down the hillsides into it. It’s hard not to escape the sound of water on this walk.
Mountain sheep are likely to be your only companions. Be prepared to be stared at repeatedly, as they wonder what on Earth you’re doing there.
3) The Waterfalls
I’ve been lucky enough to explore two of the biggest waterfalls in the Howgills and both were dramatic, beautiful and well worth the visit. Deep inside Carlin Gill is Black Force, a little-known waterfall, which is easy to miss on the map.
The walk in is a cracker and you really feel like you’ve discovered somewhere secretive when you finally arrive at the base of the falls. There is no marked path on the OS Map and you are highly likely to have the whole place to yourself. This was the case for me despite it being a warm and sunny Saturday afternoon in early September.
Cautley Spout
This is probably the most well-known attraction when you visit the Howgill Fells. You don’t need to worry about pay and display car parks full of cars and people though. It has been virtually free of people every time I’ve visited, which just seems hard to believe when you arrive.
Having explored much of England and Wales, I consider the falls to be one of the most beautiful natural attractions in all of England and Wales, yet it is still relatively little known. If Cautley Spout was located in The Lake District, then I have no doubt that it would see many more visitors.
Cautley Spout is widely considered to be England’s tallest waterfall. This isn’t a surprise at all when you see it from a distance, as its many cascades descend 198 metres from top to bottom. Not far off the height of Canary Wharf in London. Incredible!
Hopefully the video clip below shows the beauty of the falls, but you can find out more about the waterfall in this article here.
4) Walking In The Howgill Fells
I know I have already touched on the fine quality of the walking when you visit the Howgill Fells, but it is so good that I thought I’d highlight it again.
Although not being able to compete with the higher and more dramatic mountains of The Lake District, I once again refer to Alfred Wainwright, who described them as a very good second. When you read his descriptions of the fells and visit several decades after he recorded these notes, you realise how little they’ve changed. They have a timeless beauty to them, which allows you to switch off from bust modern life.
What I have noticed about walking in the Howgill Fells is that there are options for all abilities. The easily navigable Dales Highway can be taken across the full length of the area, while steeper and much more remote tracks can also be explored if you wish.
The total lack of walls and fences means you can also forge your own routes across the hill sides and into little-visited valleys.
You can explore two fine walks I completed in the fells below, which both included a wild camp too:
Black Force and Fell Head summit
Bowderdale, The Calf and a descent of Cautley Spout
5) Wild Camping Opportunities
This is a controversial fifth and final reason, as wild camping is technically illegal in England and Wales unless you seek permission first. Despite this, it is widely tolerated in the remote areas, especially those high up and away from homes. I’m not going to explore the argument as to whether British laws should be the same as Scottish ones, but all I shall say is that I’ve met farmers who have been very friendly and accommodating when they’ve found me pitched on their land. If you’re quiet, respectful and well-mannered, then you aren’t likely to have any problems.
With the above points in mind, I must say that wild camping can certainly be enjoyed when you visit the Howgill Fells. The quiet empty landscape make them ideally suited for it.
The lack of crags and rocks overall also make them a great place to pitch a tent. There is nothing worse than battling with rocks under the thin soil when trying to get your pegs in. This isn’t really an issue here.
If you are looking to get away from it all for a night or two, then there are few places better to wild camp in my experience than the Howgill Fells.
