As I write this in June 2022, there is currently a cost of living crisis in England. Energy prices have soared as have fuel prices, which are at an all time high and make my eyes water every time I need to fill up. As a result, life sure is tough at the moment and there can seem little light at the end of the tunnel. All the more reason then in my eyes to leave civilisation behind and head off to wild camp on Plynlimon ( Pumlumon in Welsh ). It is the highest summit in The Cambrian Mountains and offers peace and solitude in spades. Hopefully my knees would be up to the challenge.
The Journey Skywards
Quite fittingly it was straight uphill from the car. It felt quite daunting knowing I had around 500 metres of climbing to accomplish, especially with the miles of walking I had in the legs from the previous day. I had camped in a remote valley to the north of the mountain and felt refreshed from my earlier morning swim at the bottom of a waterfall. It had been a wonderful experience and I felt truly alive and relaxed being in such a peaceful setting. It didn’t take long for the sweat to start running though as the sun beat down and I worked hard to fight the gradient. Other than the sound of bumble bees, skylarks and sheep, it was lovely though hearing no man-made noises. Not a car in sight.
I knew from obsessively studying the OS map beforehand, that the steep climb from the car would eventually flatten out and I’d have an easier time of things until I reached a lake another couple of kilometres further on. Thankfully this came to pass and my legs were thankful for it. I knew it wouldn’t last long, but it was nice to be able to enjoy the views from my already elevated position. The landscape below was already starting to open up as I got to enjoy a meandering river occupying a lonely valley to the north- its backdrop being a coniferous forest.
The Lake Is Reached
I was relieved when I dropped my weighty pack and got to enjoy the incredible sight I was now greeted with. What sat before me was something you’d expect to see in Snowdonia or The Lake District, such was its beauty. I had reached Llyn Llygad Rheidol, a lake sitting behind the main hulking mass of Plynlimon ( Pumlumon ) mountain. In some ways it reminded me of Llyn Cau, which sits below Cadair Idris in Snowdonia. Steep craggy slopes surround the lake on three sides with one end being more open and offering amazing views of further mountains.
I was expecting to have this lake all to myself, especially being a Wednesday, but I soon heard distant voices and spotted four people making their way down the steep slope I was hoping to take to the summit. As they got closer, I realised that they were a family of four and the poor dad was clearly wearing the wrong shoes as he kept slipping and falling over. He was down more times than Rocky Balboa and they all found it rather amusing.
I decided to have a quick chat with them as the dad wiped the mud from his trousers. The son, who must have been around thirteen, boasted that he’d already counted 93 slugs on the route. I made his day by telling him he’d reach 100 by the end. The dad told me that the climb would take around an hour and that it was worth it as the views were amazing. Those were the words I wanted to hear. They soon headed down the track I had just taken while I followed in their footsteps. It looked very steep indeed and virtually pathless, but I was determined to succeed.
The Push To The Summit
I soon learned that this climb was both longer and tougher than it looked from the shores of the mountain lake. Just as I crested a hill, I’d be greeted with another slope, which seemed even the steeper than the previous one. It didn’t deter me though. At 752 metres, I knew I wasn’t climbing some Himalayan peak and would reach the top eventually.
My biggest concern was water, which was disappearing quicker than I had planned from my bottle. I sweat a lot and it was impossible not to, over such challenging terrain. I started doing the calculations in my head and knew there wouldn’t be anywhere to fill up at the top. Two cans of beer in my pack sadly wouldn’t keep me hydrated. Quite the opposite in fact.
As if by magic, I soon noticed that the faint path I was following was becoming more moist until it turned into a small stream. It seemed the rain from the previous night had come to my rescue and I filled two bottles from the gentle trickle. I was only a few steps from its source but dropped a couple of chlorine tablets in just to be safe. Plynlimon summit was not the best location for a dodgy belly.
I was now on a high again and upped my pace. The sun was shining, the views were incredible and there was nobody else in sight. Bliss!
The Highest Man In Mid-Wales
That muddy dad was correct. Just over an hour after leaving the lake, the trig point came into view. All the hard work was done and I was about to reap the rewards. It was such a good feeling stepping up and placing my hands on the stone that marks so many summits across The United Kingdom. You get such a good sense of accomplishment I just don’t think you’d get if there was nothing. I’m not sure who came up with the idea of placing these stones here, but it’s genius if you ask me.
The view from the summit was incredible. I knew it was the highest bit of ground for some considerable distance and it was believable here. Looking south I could see the peaks of The Brecon Beacons. To the north were the clear mountains of Snowdonia and I’m sure I could see Snowdon looming large in the distance. My favourite view was looking west though. Lakes and smaller mountains could be seen in the foreground with the Irish Sea shimmering further away. I knew I had to set up camp as it was already 7pm, but it was hard to drag myself away. It was the best view I’ve seen in a very long time.
Sunsets Don’t Get Much Better
I managed to erect my tent in twenty minutes flat, which is a record for me. The hardy sheep not too far away didn’t have to witness any swearing and I didn’t need to have to a conversation with myself about what a useless individual I can be in settings like this. Getting the lines pegged in was tough as the grass appeared to only be a couple of inches thick. Thankfully there was hardly a breath of wind and it was forecast to remain that way, so I didn’t worry. What I was more interested in was filling my stomach and enjoying the sun set.
I enjoyed Irish stew for dinner, which was washed down with a milk stout. It might not sound all that pleasant, but I would actually highly recommend you try a drop. The remainder of the evening was very special indeed. I would wild camp on Plynlimon ( Pumlumon ) all by myself and I just sat on a grassy bank watching the sun slip down behind the distant hills and sea.
My life is usually hectic and I rarely get to sit and just be. That is exactly what I did this night and it was all the better for it. I experienced quiet like I’ve never known and a view which made me pleased to be alive. Somebody once said the best things in life are free and in this case I completely agree. I knew that all the stars had aligned with the weather being perfect and a tiny crescent moon appearing. This would mean that I’d enjoy an incredible night sky once it finally got dark.
Heaven Above
I finally retired to my tent at just before eleven and the sky wasn’t yet completely dark. I figured I would get up in the early hours to see what the night sky in rural mid-Wales would be like. The area has dark sky status and is considered one of the best spots in the country to stargaze.
I drifted off fairly quickly, but woke at around 1 am to have a look. It was worth the faff of wrestling out of my sleeping bag and facing the cold, which it certainly was even for the beginning of June. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky. There seemed to be thousands of stars and they were so clear that it almost seemed like I could reach up and pick some out of the heavens. I found it rather spiritual for a couple of minutes, before I retreated to the warmth of my sleeping bag once more.
An Interesting Alarm Call
At around 4.30am I was woken by a sound I wasn’t expecting, especially at this time- voices. There seemed to quite a few of them and I soon noticed the odd silhouette of a person walking close to the tent. At first I thought a search and rescue part had been sent out. Then I considered it might be the land owner asking why I was there. I didn’t dare venture out of the tent and instead just listened to the conversation. It soon became apparent that they were outdoor enthusiasts up to enjoy the sunrise. I had nothing to worry about. I was in awe of how early they must have risen to make it to the top of Plynlimon at this time. Pure dedication that’s for sure!
An hour later and the landscape was as peaceful as it had been the previous evening. The mountain was mine again and I enjoyed a breakfast of beans and sausages washed down with a black coffee. That proved useful after only four hours of sleep. By 7.30am I was all packed away and making sure I had left no trace of me being there.
As I made my way down the mountain, I relived the experience of the previous night. I couldn’t help but have a spring in my step and a quick wash in the lake certainly helped. Plynlimon is certainly a special mountain and one that I’d highly recommend everybody visit at least once. It might not be as high as those in Snowdonia, but what it lacks in height it more than makes up for in wild isolation and beauty. A hike or even a wild camp on Plylimon ( Pumlumon ) is well worth the effort.