Before I visited the west coast of Cumbria, I’d read many articles which painted the area in a pretty negative light. Deprivation, an insular local population and eye-watering crime rates had put me off. This all changed though at the start of August 2024. I was visiting The Lake District and virtually all accommodation was either full or massively over-priced. The Premier Inn at Whitehaven was an absolute bargain though and so I found myself heading further west than I’d ever done along the A66. Not only did I enjoy my stay, but I was also treated to what must one of if not the best coastal run in Cumbria.
Whitehaven Itself
The run begins in the port town of Whitehaven. Sadly it doesn’t have the beautiful white sand beach that the name might help you picture in your mind. The buildings also look nothing like the ones you might see on islands like Santorini.
Even without the Mediterranean climate or crystal clear waters, Whitehaven is still a pleasant enough place. Backed by steep hills, many of the Georgian buildings still remain. A very handy Tesco supermarket makes for a very convenient place to park the car too. It isn’t very often you can see the masts of sailing boats from a supermarket car park I reckon. Click here to find out more about why the town appeals to those who make the effort to visit.
The Running Route
After running around the harbor, the climbing begins almost straight away. There are a couple of options, but both involve some steps and a good burn in the legs to kick things off. It is well worth pacing yourself early on, as there are further climbs later on.
The Push To The Cliff Top & Beyond
Soon that clear path shown in the photo above all but disappears and things get a fair bit rougher. The coastal path is clearly sign posted the entire way though, so don’t worry about getting lost. The long grass did make small stretches more difficult to navigate, just because you don’t want to twist an ankle. Thankfully, this section passes quickly enough and you start the main ascent of the day. It kicks up straight away and then backs off into a general slog towards the highest point just below 129 metres above the waves.
The views once at the top are just sublime and one of the reasons why this could be the best coastal run in Cumbria. I really had no idea that the cliffs along here were so high and dramatic. Saltom Bay sure does look a long way down and it is a relief that the path is wide and not particularly technical by this point. An added bonus is that your final destination appears in the distance and so you now have something to aim towards- St Bees Lighthouse.
Annoyingly, I had to turn around just before making it to the end, due to some unpleasant twinges in one of my legs. An even longer walk back wasn’t particularly fancied. Very annoying to get within a mile of it only to have to turn around but these things happen. I have no doubt that the lighthouse makes for a brilliant stop half way through. Click here to watch some excellent drone shots around the lighthouse. You can also click here to find out more about the history of it.
The Return Leg
What goes up must come down as they say. That’s certainly true on this run. Not only is mostly down hill but you are of course now familiar with the path ahead, which is reassuring. I resisted the urge to hammer it back to car what with my dodgy leg, but was still quite a bit quicker than the outward leg.
The views north along the coastline were stunning too. I couldn’t resist stopping to snap a couple of pictures.