I was one very relieved man to finally reach The Ogwen Valley after a six and a half hour journey. It seemed I crawled through every traffic jam known to man on the way. Stepping out of the car though soon allowed me to forgive those hellish roads for all their trespassing. I don’t think I’ll ever get bored of the stunning views this valley offers after previously enjoying some great hiking in The Carneddau to the north of the A5. Soon enough, I was leaving the main road behind me and heading steeply uphill, ready for a wild camp by Llyn Clyd.
Scenery With The Wow Factor
Despite having a geography degree and being well travelled, I still managed to loose the path almost straight away. The terrain was challenging, but I could make out where I was heading to thanks to the shape of the mountains around me.
It didn’t take long until I reached Llyn Idwal- a stunning lake surrounded by the highest peaks of the Glyderau. The light rocks making up the craggy mountain sides contrasted beautifully against the blue sky. Several families played together by the waterside, the sound of laughter and happiness in the air. I paused and enjoyed where I was. It was clear already why this area of Snowdonia is so popular and why I’d read so many positive articles about it like this one.
The Path Steepens
Eventually, my attention turned from Llyn Idwal to the steep path I could see snaking its way up the mountainside. It looked tough from afar, but I was up for the challenge and getting a good workout. It’s amazing what a tough gradient and heavy weight on your back can do for you legs, core and aerobic system. Just one of the many benefits of backpacking if you like to keep fit.
The path was clear and well constructed all the way up. It was made all the easier by the dry conditions and total lack of wind. This did mean it was midge perfect weather though and I didn’t hang around for too long in any one spot for that reason. It’s amazing how quickly the little suckers hone in on you for a feed.
Llyn Clyd Is Reached
As the path became less steep, so I left it behind and headed cross country for a couple of hundred metres away until I caught my first sight of the lake. Sadly, two tents were set up at the far end of it, so my dreams of having it all to myself were dashed. It wasn’t too bad though. Llyn Clyd was larger than I had expected it to be and there was plenty of space to go around.
I had a brief chat with the four other campers, who I found out were made up of a mum and dad together with their daughter and partner. What a great thing to do together.
Not wanting to overstay my welcome, I wished them a pleasant evening and then headed around to the other side of the lake to find a suitable place to spend the remainder of the evening.
Dinner was enjoyed along with a refreshing beer. Dessert then consisted of a Bountry Bar, which I thought was fitting in this little piece of Welsh paradise. It certainly went down without much difficulty!
After this it was time to enjoy golden hour, as the sun slowly slipped behind Y Garn behind me. Sunset is a magical time of day. The light changes almost by the minute and the once light grey rocks can turn orange and even red. Eventually,details on distant peaks become obscured, with only the silhouettes of the mountains now visible. A photographer’s dream.
Even by around half past ten there was still some faint light in the air. I was tired though and prepared my sleep system ready for the night ahead. Being nearly seven hundred metres above sea level, I knew it might get cold, so was to be using my winter kit. That certainly ended up being a wise move, as my wild camp by Llyn Clyd would have been uncomfortable without it.
It took a while to drift off. The stars were appearing almost by the second and it was simply stunning. There are many people, like the person who wrote this article, who claim bivvy camping can’t be beaten in settled conditions. On this occasion I agreed. Laying on your back and staring up at the heavens is great for the soul and makes you feel one with the world you belong to. Well worth it if you haven’t tried it yet.
Up Before The Sun
My wild camp by Llyn Clyd was to see me rise before 4:00 am. There was already a faint light in the sky to the east and I had around an hour to pack away and cimb the two hundred metres or so to the summit of Y Garn. A bivvy camp makes it so simple to pack away. Within ten minutes of being up, I checked I had left no trace and was heading skywards once more. My only fuel so far had been a banana and two chocolate biscuits. I’d enjoy the rest of my breakfast in the sun once it had climbed above the horizon.
It didn’t take too long to reach the summit cairn and was surprised to be met my three guys, who had beaten me there. I was even more shocked to learn they had driven through the night from Suffolk with only a couple of hours of sleep to see them through. Legends each and every one of them. You of course might just think they were fruitcakes!
When the sun did come up, it was stunning. We all stood in silence for several moments just taking in the incredible natural spectacle before us. I shall let the clip below prove what a privilege it was to on Y Garn summit so early in the morning. Worth every step and silly alarm call for sure.