John Lennon famously once said that, ” Life is what happens when you’re busy making other plans.” As a man who has a habit of liking routine and certainty, I think this line is great. It doesn’t matter how well you plan something. Sometimes things don’t transpire the way you hoped and you end up all the better for it. That was certainly the case with my unplanned night at Arenig Bothy. The ten minutes or so I had set aside to have a brief stop and look around inside ended up lasting nearly fourteen hours longer than it should have.

The Original Plan

I had visions in my head of arriving in the Arenig region of Snowdonia by early afternoon. From here I would have several hours of daylight to climb Arenig Fawr- the highest mountain at 854 metres, before finding a brilliant spot to wild camp just below its summit. Conditions looked good in the weather forecast and I couldn’t wait to enjoy incredible panoramic views.

Of course I arrived around three hours later than anticipated. A brilliant wild camp the previous night on Glasgwm plus the addition of a stunning but time consuming hike to Aran Fawddry had sapped me of more energy and time than I had thought it would. Pulling into a lay-by just below the hulking mass of Arenig Fawr, I felt uncertain and anxious. Things weren’t going as originally planned and it made me uncomfortable. These trips certainly hep you learn more about yourself that’s for sure. With me, I think I’ve noticed I need to go with the flow more. Work in progress!

The Journey Begins

As I left my car behind, I was stressed and having a good old talk with myself in my head. I really wanted to make it to the summit, but was worried that the darkness may well fall and catch me out before I got there. It was an unfamiliar mountain to me and I didn’t want to summit just before dusk only find gale force winds and a place unsuitable for a tent.

Studying the map, I knew it was only a short walk up to the lake, which sits below the mountain. I also knew that by its shore was a little mountain bothy. A decision was made. I’d make it to the shelter and have a warm drink inside, while making a final decision about what the heck I was going to do for the remainder of the day and night.

With my tired legs making relatively easy work of the gradual climb towards the bothy, I stopped to chat to two women on their way back down. With thick Scouse accents, they were a pleasure to listen to and were very funny indeed. Are people from Liverpool born with funny bones? They had been to the summit and were both knackered by their own admission. That didn’t fill me with confidence, but I was still glad to have shared a couple of minutes conversation with them.

My next interaction was every bit as enjoyable, but much more one-sided on the conversation front. It’s always good to mingle with the local when travelling, so I thought I’d make an effort up here in North Wales. The video link below shows how this went if you wish to check it out.

https://animoto.com/play/2NOBwddGrU6xZ4XX9OZ6wA

The Bothy Is Reached

Around thirty minutes after leaving the car, the roof of Arenig Bothy came into view. My first impression from a distance was that it commands a stunning location. Behind it sat the large Llyn Arenig Fawr with the craggy mountain as a backdrop. The views looking south and east were far more expansive. Open moorland seemed the order of the day here with the impressive Aran Ridge clearly visible in the distance. It was hard to believe I had stood on its highest point earlier in the day.

As I got nearer, it became increasingly clear why this is considered one of the smallest bothies around. It looked little bigger than a shed. Now was the was time to go and see how on Earth something so small could function as a mountain shelter.

Exploring The Bothy

I always get nervous approaching a bothy. Various thoughts often enter my head. Will it be empty? Will there be anybody at home and if so what will they be like? I think these questions are common among folk who find themselves visiting these places.

https://animoto.com/play/9I0sR8CoEiP9ddCCTiAlTg– approaching the bothy.

I gave a tap on the door and with no response, pushed open the door to see what lay behind. What I found was a tiny but very well thought out space. There was clearly only one room available, but it offered an open fire, two sleeping platforms ( one little wider than a bench ) and shelves containing various items donated by previous occupants.

Although lovely and wide, the main sleeping platform looked pretty short and I felt the need to try it for size. Would I fit or not? At around six foot two in my hiking boots, there was around an inch to spare. That means it will accommodate most sleeping mats, but you’ll struggle to stretch out if you’re much taller than I am. Side sleeping might be a necessity if you are!

The Plans Change

Even after exploring virtually every crevice inside the bothy, I still had thoughts about scaling the mountain. Little sayings like ‘ you only live once’ and Del Boy’s ‘ He who dares wins’ were playing in my mind. A step outside soon made me retreat back inside again though.

The clouds had come in and the rain was now bouncing off of the roof. Figuring it wouldn’t be a very fun climb, I stayed put and decided to make a fire, while reading the bothy book. That had to be more enjoyable surely? A few moments later, I head a knock on the door and was soon chatting to a rather wet looking hiker. I soon learned that this guy was called Alex and spent two days hiking here from his home in Machynlleth. He had planned to bivvy next to the lake, but the change in weather had made him want to stay at Arenig Bothy. I couldn’t blame him.

Alex seemed a pretty cool guy and I was in awe straight away at how little he was carrying. It seemed my pack for one night was much bigger and heavier than his was for a three day outing. Even his walking pole was carved from a local tree rather than purchased from an outdoor shop. I felt as if I had the word novice printed across my forehead!

Should I Stay Or Should I Go?

As down to Earth as Alex seemed, I was initially a little disappointed when he entered. There is something quite special about having a bothy to yourself, as you feel like this little home away from home is yours alone. He had shattered that dream!

It was perhaps wrong of me, but initially I felt like he was intruding. I was secretly hoping he’d change his mind and head out to the lake again to leave me in peace. Being in such a close space, there would be no privacy what so ever. If I did stay, I’d have to get changed and maybe even snore in front of a person I hardly knew. This is part and parcel of bothy life, but I hadn’t really experienced this yet and once again left me feeling a little uncomfortable.

Just then Alex said that he had a strange request. I joked that this isn’t something you should say to a stranger in the middle of nowhere, but inside I was genuinely a little concerned by what he was might ask. He just smiled and said that he’d gone the whole day so far without using anything electrical and wanted to try and maintain that inside the bothy. Initially, I was a little taken back, but decided I would comply. We all depend on electricity far too much and the fire was doing a great job providing the light and entertainment anyway.

Settling In For The Night

If you’re still reading this Alex then I’m sorry about some of those confessions in the previous paragraph. As the darkness fell and we each filled our bellies, I soon realised that he would be good company for the night. Those concerns I’d had were all down to my own insecurities and being out of my comfort zone. Sometimes you have to face them head on to grow as a person.

As darkness fell, so the whiskey I’d packed started to flow. It had never been strained on the conversation front, but I think my Irish triple distilled helped it continue with even more ease. It was amazing how quickly the time passed. Bothy TV ( the fire ), whiskey and good chat certainly provide an excellent night’s entertainment. Not an electrical device was to be seen anywhere either apart from when Alex went out to the loo and I quickly captured the fire below.

Rising With The Sun

As I rose at just after half past six, it seemed I had slept pretty well. Nothing had gone bump in the night and Alex hadn’t morphed into a serial killer. I tried to be as quiet as possible, but I still woke him up. Hard not to in such a small space. Thankfully, he wasn’t annoyed, as he wanted to get up anyway to watch the sun rise.

As we wrapped up and headed out, I was pleased to see the clouds of last night had scattered. We both headed off in different directions to enjoy our little slice of heaven. It was certainly just that. The sky was changing colour almost by the minute. Dark rocks behind the lake suddenly took on a distinctly Martian appearance, as the rising sun turned them red.

The few clouds in the sky were now pink, while those sitting just above where the sun was rising almost looked like they were burning. Below in the valleys sat a mist, which just finished things off perfectly. There was hardly a breath of wind and it was gorgeous.

By eight O clock, our stay at Arenig Bothy was over and we were heading back in the general direction of my car. Alex was planning to continue on towards Capel Curig, where his hike would end. I on the other hand would have to say goodbye to Snowdonia and take the four hour drive back home to Hertfordshire. As a shook Alex’s hand and wished him a bon voyage, I felt sad to be leaving, but so happy about the experience I’d had during my stay at Arenig Bothy. As that song went in that great 80’s show Auf Wiedersehen Pet, ‘ That’s Livin’ Alright!’