After my first winter wild camp a few weeks ago, I found myself chomping at the bit to get another snowy fix as soon as I could. A cold spell had failed to deliver any wintry precipitation to the south east of England as per usual, but I couldn’t help but notice in the daily forecasts that North Wales seemed to to be hitting the jackpot as far as snowfall was concerned. My mind had been made up. I’d set the alarm early and head up to Snowdonia on Saturday for a hike and wild camp in Cwm Eigiau, a dramatic valley I’d wanted to explore for some time. My day of teaching a Year One class passed in a breeze that Friday. As tired as I was, I kept drifting off in my mind to the stunning views I had enjoyed before. The beauty of travel!
Car Cemetery
I appreciate that this a strange sub heading to begin with, but the photos below will surely prove why it is needed. I planned to drive the same precarious road I had taken on a previous visit to Dulyn Bothy. The lane is single track most of the way and very steep in places. I figured it wasn’t too snowy low down, so might make it all the way to the car park at the end or at least a good part of the way.
The drive started well. There was no ice and my horn did a good job in warning others that a Sandero was fighting its way up the savage gradients and around the blind bends. Just after the halfway point though, sheet ice suddenly covered the road and I found another car reversing its way down the slope. I would be going no further it seemed.
Thankfully, I managed to find a lay by to park my car. Soon I was all loaded up and starting the long walk along the road that seemed to have danger written all over it.
These weren’t the only victims left abandoned on the road. A poor chap from Birmingham had come off on a bend and had his car stuck in a ditch. The vehicle was still there the next day, so I can only assume he had needed to stay in a hotel over night. Yes I was very relieved to have given up when I did.
Snow Makes Things Hard Going
Parking lower down the road had added an extra couple of kilometres to my route. It was a fair long walk before I was even able to enter Cwm Eigiau itself and the ice and snow made things slow going. The view of the snow covered mountains just made it all worthwhile though, as I just drank in the fine views I was now afforded. Snowdonia in winter is stunning I am sure you’ll agree.
After what seemed an eternity, I finally reached Llyn Eigiau, which in many ways is the gateway to the valley I was aiming for. The path started to climb as did the difficulty in walking. The snow seemed to deepen quickly almost by the step and was soon ankle deep. Few foot prints showed that hardly a soul had been here since the land had been carpeted in white. I was thankful for my walking pole. It made it easier to slog my way skywards and maintain my balance with the huge pack on my back.
Fighting The Light
My progress was much slower planned and I was increasingly aware of how the light was starting to fade. My destination originally was supposed to be the highest lake in all of Wales- Ffynnon Llyfant, which sits at around 815 metres above sea level. I figured the snow would be lovely and deep up there. Add in the craggy slopes of Carnedd Llewelyn together the frozen lake and you have a wonderful camping spot. What I didn’t expect was near on knee deep snow in places at around five hundred metres.
There was no way on Earth I’d get to the lake before darkness fell and I figured it would make more sense to set up lower down. I found what looked like an old settlement of some sort and pitched the tent in no time. Manually clearing the snow away from the patch I wanted to use, proved the toughest job. It was knackering work, but I was very relieved to finally watch the last of the light leave the sky whist knowing that my home for the night was waiting for me.
Settling In
With darkness now enveloping me and my tent, it was time to unpack, settle in and get the beers chilled. One benefit of so much snow is that you have an instant fridge and unlimited water supply as long as you can melt it.
I also found my tummy rumbling earlier than it normally would. I guess all that trudging through snow and setting up for a wild camp in Cwm Eigiau burns a fair few calories.
My tried and tested Jet Boil was deployed in no time and the dehydrated meal I had carried with me proved very delicious and filling indeed. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but ended up being pleasantly surprised.
By just gone ten, I was ready to call it a night. I had enjoyed even more food and drink, while also making excellent progress with a new book I had bought with me. I never seem to have much time to read at home. These escapes to the wild offer the perfect place to enjoy a good book though.
How did I sleep?
Sleep was fairly broken overnight with the strong gusts of wind buffeting the tent. I was warm though, cocooned in my sleeping bag, which was the most important thing. I even managed to make it through the entire night without having to empty my bladder at any point. Anybody who knows me will testify that this is a near miracle, but one I was very thankful for on such a cold night. There really is nothing worse than having to leave the warmth of your bag and tent to head outside to go to the loo. Some hardy folk bring a special bottle, but I just can’t bring myself to do that. Anyway enough of the toilet talk. On with the trip!
We All Know What Red Sky In The Morning Means
I woke before daybreak and decided to film a time lapse of the sunrise. I always enjoy watching the changing of the light first thing, but sadly the rising sun was in short supply with the cloud filling the sky in places. As the sun rose though, it still turned some of the distant sky a fiery red. The aspiring weather man in me came racing to the surface and I noted that this was a sign of the conditions heading my way. A red sky first thing in Snowdonia can only mean one thing- precipitation of some sort!
Thankfully, the sleet and snow didn’t start to fall until I was well into the walk back to the car. I enjoyed a good hour or so just enjoying the views of the snow covered mountains, while eating breakfast. I also got through several cups of coffee, which were needed after the fairly broken sleep during the previous night.
One highlight was watching several wild horses found in this part of Snowdonia searching for food on a nearby flatter piece of land. The snow might look pretty, but I did figure then that it must make it damn hard for local wildlife to find much to eat. I guess the animals found in this part of the country are as tough as they come though.
To Conclude….
As I packed away and headed back to the car, I once again reflected on my night and wild camp in Cwm Eigiau. I knew from my first snowy wild camp how enjoyable they could be and this proved to be no exception. When you have the fine cocktail of fine mountain views, solitude and deep untouched snow, then you know you’re onto a winner. I know you may still be reading this from a warm room thinking I was mad for doing it. Hopefully the pictures and my words have shown you why winter trips are some of the best you can enjoy.
