Where are The Howgill Fells located in the UK? I reckon if that question featured in pub quizzes around the country, then most teams would have a cross next to their answer. Only those local to the fells or keen outdoor folk would have any chance of getting it right. That’s a shame. Despite living over two hundred miles from the fells, I’ve now returned several times. Such is their unique beauty,they just keep drawing me back. On this occasion, I’d be enjoying what I now consider to be a mighty fine walk in The Howgills. Waterfalls, gorgeous valleys and a fine summit were all on the menu and they were very much enjoyed.
Where Are They Located?
Just explaining where the Howgills are located may well seem confusing. They are positioned partly within the county of Cumbria, yet can be found in the north western part of The Yorkshire Dales National Park. The fells here certainly don’t feel particularly Yorkshire- like and the geology of the area reflects this. They seem to have more in common with the Lake District, which is only a few miles to the north and west. Even the names of some of the hills and valleys are shared with nearby cousins. You’ll find Langdale both in The Lakes and Howgill Fells for example.
The Route
Before heading north, I carefully plotted a route, which would hopefully add variety along the way. I didn’t want the distance to be particularly great either, as time would be at a premium on this trip. It didn’t disappoint. The map below shows the circuit I completed.
The Dramatic Start
After leaving the M6 at junction 38 and taking the A685 south, I turned left onto the minor road, which passes immediately under the motorway. I decided to park my car in a small lay-by just past Carlingill Bridge. There are several spots to leave your vehicle here and it is unlikely to be busy at any time of the year.
Loading my pack was a joy in the sunshine as was watching thrill seekers paragliding off of a nearby hill. Weather conditions were perfect for it.
Before long I was heading gradually uphill and then into the gorgeous Carlin Gill itself. The beck glistened below, as it meandered along the valley floor. Steep sided valleys descending either side, while the taller fells loomed impressively in the distance. I was only a few hundred metres into the walk and it already felt an absolute pleasure to be out.
The Valley Narrows
Using the excellent OS Map App, I couldn’t help but notice how the path I was following just ended abruptly a little way along Carlin Gill Beck. The valley also narrowed considerably ahead and became more craggy and dramatic.
On the ground there was still a faint path to follow as you can see in the photo above. It might be worth topping up your confidence levels though at this point due to the path climbing and almost clinging to the steep hill side at times. Conditions were fine and dry when I did it and it still took care to negotiate. You could certainly be tacked in wetter conditions, but you’d certainly want decent footwear.
The sound of the gill cascading below was very refreshing on such a warm day and various small falls and pools could be spotted through the trees. I was certainly relieved to eventually make it down to the water’s edge, where I enjoyed a brief splash in the water.
Black Force Is Reached
It wasn’t long before I stopped and dropped my pack to admire what I’d come all this way to see. Hills loomed tall either side of me and there was now a dramatic waterfall cascading its way down on the right. This was Black Force.
It may not have been quite as tall as Cautley Spout on the other side of the fells, but it still had me standing in awe. Even with relatively little water in the gill, it still made for quite the natural spectacle and I can imagine it is simply awesome after heavy rain. The noise it then generates must be something else. What I also loved was how how rocky it was. The area is more famous for its open grassy slopes, so it is a bit of a treat on this walk in the Howgills to be treated to this.
I could ramble on either more about how impressive the falls were, but reckon a video clip below will do the job just as well.
The Climb Begins
I knew from studying the map that I had to make it up the steep slope on the left- hand side of the falls. It looked steep from a distance, but it proved even steeper once finally on it. The heavy pack on my back made the battle against gravity harder, but the burn in the legs and lungs was enjoyed as usual. Is it only me who enjoys this? It is always good knowing the body is getting a good work out and this occasion was no different.
I ended up on all fours at one stage such was the steepness. Almost a scramble but with no rocks on this side of the gill I’m not sure it can ever qualify as one. Eventually, I reached a grassy arete near the top of Black Force, as you saw in the video clip above. It was never too severe and was certainly no Crib Goch. Despite this, it was still exciting to cross and was just another feature to turn this walk in the Howgills into a great circuit.
I was relieved to finally reach the top, where views back down into the valley were very much enjoyed. My tried and tested water filter I purchased up in Scotland was also deployed and did a wonderful job in providing me with 2.2 litres of fresh water for the remainder of the evening. I hasn’t set a foot wrong after multiple uses.
Making It To The Summit
There was still some climbing to do on the faint path towards the summit, but things were more of a slog now than a proper climb. It was all more than bearable due to the views I was now afforded. To my left was another valley, which had been carved by a lonely gill and was now populated with sheep.
The summit lay directly ahead of me, while the open views across the Howgill Fells now lay behind me. It is always hard to resist the urge to look back behind you on a climb to admire the view, but I did well on this trip. I didn’t turn to admire it until I was only a couple of hundred metres or so from the trig point.
Eventually the summit of Fell Head was reached, where the pack could be dropped for the remainder of the evening and the view enjoyed in all directions. It was stunning and the weather conditions made it all the more glorious. I had landed on my feet!
I could see from this height why the great Alfred Wainright had referred to the Howgill Fells as being like a herd of sleeping elephants. The steep sided hills and mountains are positioned in such a way that you can easily see the resemblance.
It sure was hard to drag myself away from the extensive views I was enjoying, but dusk was in the air and it was time to pitch my tent..
Setting Up Camp
There was hardly any wind up on Fell Head, but I knew that if things changed overnight, then I’d be seriously exposed to the elements. Because of this, I headed a couple of hundred metres west to a slightly higher summit, which was without a name.
There was a flatter section just below the main ridge. This would offer some shelter from the wind should it decide to challenge me and my tent in the middle of the night. I reckon it was a rather decent pitch as locations go. No rocks in the ground to navigate and with stunning views looking west. A very pleasant evening ahead looked likely and even the midges were staying away. Bonus!
Sitting and cooking my dinner on my Jet Boil while watching the sun sink towards the hilly horizon is one I won’t forget. Here I was on a fine warm Saturday evening up in a cracking spot and yet there was nobody else around. I’m sure those distant hills looking west into The Lake District would provide a different experience.
The Lakes are incredible and solitude can of course still be found, but it’s also more than possible to end up sharing a popular spot with many others. I’m certain that this isn’t likely to be an issue on this walk in the Howgills.
Darkness Falls
By just after nine there was very little light left in the sky and so the landscape below me started to transform. The Howgill Fells are located in a very rural part of northern England, but there were still many twinkling lights to watch. I most enjoyed seeing the stream of white and red lights making their way along the M6. It must have only been a couple of kilometres away, yet it was completely silent from my vantage point. Two orange flashing lights soon appeared signalling somebody’s evening being ruined by a break down. I wrapped myself up a little and sipped on my Yorkshire Ale hoping that they’d be on their way again soon. Indeed they were.
It ended up being a calm evening with only a gentle breeze picking up in the early hours. A solid eight hour sleep was enjoyed, which was only broken by a call of nature around two in the morning. The night sky then was beautiful and I would have stuck around longer if my sleeping bag hadn’t been so enticing.
A Change Of Conditions
I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve woken on a mountain summit to find totally different conditions to the previous evening. It was the same on this trip, as I unzipped my tent at over six hundred metres above sea level.
Those fine views from the previous evening had totally vanished and I now found myself in an almost alien environment. It was as if I had become detached from the rest of the world and only my little patch of grass and I had survived.
The walk back down to the car was very enjoyable despite the total lack of views. Everything seemed eerie in the fog. I also enjoyed hearing the sound of a gill cascading down the mountain long before it was spotted. It is hard not to build pictures in your mind of what these features look like, when you are only relying on your sense of hearing rather than sight.
To Wrap Things Up…….
I returned to the car a mere eighteen hours after leaving it, yet it felt a lot longer than that. This walk in the Howgills had allowed me to totally re-set the batteries and enjoy some quality immersing myself in a wonderful landscape. Other than that wild camper spotted near the start, I’d also completely had the fells to myself. That fact is still hard to believe when I consider what I’d seen and experienced on the trip.