Who Says It’s Grim Up North?
I just smiled again to myself today, as I drove home across The M1 motorway in Hertfordshire and spotted that sign ushering drivers towards ‘The North’. Clearly it’s such an important place that they decided to use capitals for every letter. Even if it was in lower case, I would still strangely find myself drawn to it somehow. Discussions such as where the north is exactly or where it starts often fill my head. Images of mountains, remote valleys and solitude often appear in my memory as well. Many trips into the land where the a in bath needs no r buddy to help, rally has made me think that it is just better in the north.
I remember my Irish Grandfather telling me years ago how Leeds was the most depressingly grim place he’d ever visited, not long after he arrived on British soil in the early 1950’s. If he were still alive today, I’d show him the pictures of the centre of the city and all the developments that have been made. Yes I’m sure Leeds still has its dodgy parts, but then again my grandfather decided to settle in Edmonton, North London. Anybody who knows north London will know there are fewer places worse these days. I’m almost certain aircraft can’t fly too low over the area for fear of having their wheels stolen!
In my experience, the majority of people who label ‘The North’ grim are the people who have rarely visited it. They don’t know what they’re missing! I’ve met hundreds of people from this part of England and not one of them ever speaks ill of it. Even those who have moved south to be near London, speak affectionately of their hometowns. Sometimes it is for things as funny as gravy on their chips or even them being free enough to let loose with their natural accent and be understood!
One thing is for sure. On the whole, northern folk are a proud bunch, especially those from more isolated places like Newcastle. Stop any local along the banks of The Tyne and I reckon most would say they are very proud to be a Geordie. While Harry Enfield ever so slightly exaggerated the typical Yorkshire man in one of his character creations, it is funny how announcing where he was from was one of the first thing he did. Funnily enough, I’m often very quickly aware if the person I’m chatting to is from Yorkshire, or God’s Own Country as they like to call it.
I might laugh, but as a southerner, maybe inside I’m just a bit jealous. Talking to a northerner makes me very aware of my lack of accent, while I struggle to brag about the beauty of Epping Forest or The Lee Valley Park near London. They’re nice enough, but neither will ever be in the running to gain national park status. Those who live in the upper reaches of The M1,M6 and A1 have a lot to be proud of. For the purpose of my fingers and your attention span though, I shall just focus on the the area you came here for- the landscape.
Mountains And Hills-Bigger Really Is Better
Since exploring much of the north in the past year or so, I have started to feel sorry for such areas as The Chilterns and Surrey Hills. These areas are still lovely and as such are considered areas of natural beauty. They just don’t compete with their northern equivalences though. Flocks of tourists head to Box Hill in Surrey every time the sun is out. It’s ‘summit’ stands at 224 metres ( 735 feet ), which for any northerner is downright pathetic. Leeds Bradford runway sits at pretty much the same elevation!
The highest point in the whole of the south east is Walbury Hill in Berkshire. It sits in an attractive area at a more impressive height of 297 metres or just under one thousand feet. It is the highest spot for miles around and seems almost stratospheric as a result. Put it next to Cross Fell in The North Pennines though and it would feel very inferior indeed. With Cross Fell’s Trig point sitting at 893 metres, if both high points were people, then poor Walbury wouldn’t even reach its belt line.
I might jest, but to speak for a moment with my geographer’s hat on, strictly speaking there are no mountains at all in the south. It is generally accepted that to qualify as a mountain in the UK, the land must rise above 600 metres. I don’t want to Walbury-bash, but with that criteria, it doesn’t even clear the halfway mark. If you want mountains and go with the old adage that ‘ bigger is better,’ then the north is where it’s at.
Sadly, I have a near on three hundred mile round trip every time I wish to visit them, unlike those northern folk. If you’re reading this and live north of Sheffield, then count your blessings. The cost of fuel and the time it takes to reach your incredible landscapes can be a right pain sometimes.
National Parks
Study any map of national parks across The UK and you can’t help but notice how most are located in either the north or west. This is no coincidence. I suspect this is because as already mentioned, this is where the mountains and upland areas can be found. They are beautiful, with valuable wildlife and incredible landscapes, which must be protected for future generations.
There are national parks in the south such as The South Downs and Norfolk Broads, but in my humble opinion these don’t offer the awe-inspiring scenes you can find in the parks of the north. I challenge you to find walking route in the south that will have you swearing regularly because of the incredible views you might find at every turn in The Lake District.
Searching For Solitude
It is often widely accepted that northerners are friendlier and more outgoing than their southern counterparts. I would mostly agree with this based on my own experiences. As such, you might actually expect it to be harder to find peace and quiet. This is true in places like Kinder Scout In The Peak District. The many locals from Manchester and Sheffield, who I shared the path with, couldn’t all help but say hello. I did start to get a little tired of smiling and greeting people after a previous hundred opportunities I must say!
The great thing though is that it is easy to escape the crowds and find real peace and quiet in the north. The landscape makes it harder for house builders to develop like they seem to be doing left, right and centre in the south east. There are still quiet rural areas close to London and they’re great for mind and body. You are very unlikely to have it to yourself though and I would certainly feel more uneasy wild camping there than I would in the upland parts of the north. I’ve often thought that a stranger seeing you camp in the north would see you as an explorer, whereas in the south you’d be a dosser.
What the north can offer that the south can’t are wilderness areas or those that can be closest to earning that title. Parts of Northumberland and The North Pennines are rarely visited and it is easy to walk for an entire day and not see another person. In the busy 21st century I still think that’s amazing.
The presence of mountain bothies echoes the remoteness of parts of northern England. These shelters, which are often dubbed ‘ tents with walls’ are free to use and offer the chance to take a real step back from every day life. They certainly aren’t glamorous, but offer a great experience and are well worth exploring.
The Weather
This is a controversial one as it’s often one of the reasons the north is considered a grim place. It is true that it rains more and the temperatures are generally lower, but that isn’t all bad news. A mate of mine, who moved from the south to Manchester, has said that you do get used to it and that the difference isn’t as great as you might think. Head east of The Pennines and it becomes even less of a difference.
One thing I do love is that weather appears more diverse and extreme in the north. I know there are consequences of this like flooding and I for one am not making light of these. At least with these extremes, there comes uncertainty and anticipation. The weather down south these days is downright boring and predictable it seems. There appear to be two main seasons- a perpetual autumn from October to March, before it warms up the rest of the year. Us southerners get excited over an inch of snow, if we’re lucky enough to even get that during our coldest months.
In the winter just gone, I had to travel the nearest mountainous area of The Peak District to see snow. While I frolicked in five inches of fresh powder, Hertfordshire barely saw a dusting. Such a shame for the youngsters and grown up kids like myself.
To Conclude…..
Re-reading this piece has made me recognise how much I’ve come to love the north of England. I adore the diversity of its people and especially its landscape, which excites me every time I visit. I doubt I will ever tire of it and there is still so much more to explore. With house prices being much more reasonable away from London, I might even move up there. I’m not sure how well the locals will deal with a southern softy like me settling on their street though. That’s a whole different discussion. Until then, I’ll keep planning trips to the north and will resist giving in to the blue motorway signs on the way home from work.